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Old 19 June 2018, 18:12   #121
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Originally Posted by charliee View Post
i'm sure that a light weight Alko head. this must be driving you made - I would consider changing the hubs on the basis they may be too worn.
You can't, unless you mean the drums ..... the hubs are welded on stub axles & backplates - would need to change whole axle.
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Old 20 June 2018, 07:34   #122
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Originally Posted by G4b3 nixon View Post
I couldn't open the image, but does it have a slot on the top like the knott head in the photo attached. I have pictured the open slot and the lock out available. Also an older type that i have that would be the easiest to fabricate although it would mean removing the gaiter.
The forum will not let me post an image what I posted was a link to the image - now managed top get picture by fully embedding with HTML.

There is no 'catch'

[IMG]20180616_135231 by argonanut, on Flickr[/IMG]
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Old 20 June 2018, 15:22   #123
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The catch referred to is for particular Knott couplings.
Page 50 in this link, item 22:
https://www.barlowtrailers.co.uk/ima...-couplings.pdf
Manual Reverse Kit. While the basic reversing function remains
automatic, this kit allows easier reversing up steep hills or on poor
surfaces, where traction can sometimes be a problem. Please note Can
only be fitted to the KFG27 coupling manufactured from late 2005 that
has slot fitted as standard.

See also Page 51.

Would suggest that Knott are aware of an issue.
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Old 20 June 2018, 15:33   #124
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Originally Posted by paintman View Post

Would suggest that Knott are aware of an issue.



Maybe endemic in autoreverse mechanisms.


Most boat owners I know remove brakes entirely because they have corroded up.


My plan now seems to be ... I will cross drill the coupling to facilitate insertion of a 10mm round bar ... such that the 'pawl' cannot move backwards, and thus brakes can't operate.
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Old 20 June 2018, 16:04   #125
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Originally Posted by Sargan View Post
Maybe endemic in autoreverse mechanisms.


Most boat owners I know remove brakes entirely because they have corroded up.


My plan now seems to be ... I will cross drill the coupling to facilitate insertion of a 10mm round bar ... such that the 'pawl' cannot move backwards, and thus brakes can't operate.
Agree entirely, i have just stripped the brakes out of an old trailer to reduce any issues, however i tow with either an isuzu dmax or a van so know I have plenty of stopping power in front of any trailer.

I think your idea is the simplest solution. I haven't tried it myself, have you checked that there is no issue with broaching this section by drilling? This may be a stupid point as i am not familiar with this head,but I assume you are not going to leak fluid by drilling this?
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Old 20 June 2018, 16:19   #126
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I haven't tried it myself, have you checked that there is no issue with broaching this section by drilling? This may be a stupid point as i am not familiar with this head,but I assume you are not going to leak fluid by drilling this?



I am drilling below the damper to avoid that ... so just into the pressed steel section ... and bar will then be just behind the actuator pawl
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Old 20 June 2018, 16:25   #127
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Originally Posted by G4b3 nixon View Post
Agree entirely, i have just stripped the brakes out of an old trailer to reduce any issues, however i tow with either an isuzu dmax or a van so know I have plenty of stopping power in front of any trailer.

I think your idea is the simplest solution. I haven't tried it myself, have you checked that there is no issue with broaching this section by drilling? This may be a stupid point as i am not familiar with this head,but I assume you are not going to leak fluid by drilling this?
Stupid move for road use ,dont matter how much stopping power you have ,if your over 750Kg ,not braked and you run out of control and kill a child you will hang ....simple get it right or don,t go on the road
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Old 20 June 2018, 16:50   #128
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G4b3 nixon View Post
Agree entirely, i have just stripped the brakes out of an old trailer to reduce any issues, however i tow with either an isuzu dmax or a van so know I have plenty of stopping power in front of any trailer.
Damn those pesky brakes! Can't believe I service mine annually when I could just bin them. My D-Max is gonna love the new regime
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Old 21 June 2018, 03:58   #129
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If the weight is below 750kg then you don't need brakes at all, just a means of stopping the trailer proceeding independently if it breaks away.
Over 750kg you need brakes. If you choose to run without then you take the risk of being hung out to dry if you have an accident. Your insurers will likely pay out to any third party but may then come after you for the money.
If pulled by Police/DVSA, weighed & the trailer is not compliant you will be issued a PG9 Prohibition notice - a Police issued one is immediate - & will then need to arrange a full lift recovery of the trailer.

I weighed mine some years ago fully loaded at the local weighbridge & carry the certificate in the car.
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Old 21 June 2018, 04:20   #130
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I'd be concerned that removing C. 15% of the tube by drilling 2 x 10mm holes may significantly weaken the tube, I'd be inclined to drill a much small hole and use a smaller rod to block the compression function.

On suggestions of removing brakes this is utterly daft unless the trailer never ventures onto a public roads or is towed by a tractor (unless under 750Kgs). The cost of an annual service to keep a trailer together is nothing compared to the ramifications in case of an accident.
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