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Old 08 August 2013, 03:26   #1
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Alko drum removal

Hi. I want to remove the drums to remedy sticking brakes. I have a few questions. I want to have a good idea before setting off 140 miles to the boat, with limited resources on site.

To remove the hub nut cover does the wheel have to come off?

Are both nuts conventional thread direction?

I realise these nuts are very tight! Once the nut is off, will I need a hub puller to remove drum?

When re fitting the nut, (new) do you bounce on the breaker bar, (I don't have a torque wrench that goes past 15 ftlb.

Anything else I should know?

Thanks......
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Old 08 August 2013, 04:09   #2
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Originally Posted by Danncus View Post
Hi. I want to remove the drums to remedy sticking brakes. I have a few questions. I want to have a good idea before setting off 140 miles to the boat, with limited resources on site.

To remove the hub nut cover does the wheel have to come off?

Are both nuts conventional thread direction?

I realise these nuts are very tight! Once the nut is off, will I need a hub puller to remove drum?

When re fitting the nut, (new) do you bounce on the breaker bar, (I don't have a torque wrench that goes past 15 ftlb.

Anything else I should know?

Thanks......
Depending on which hubs you have, if they are the ones with the sealed bearings:-

Yes, the nuts are right hand thread i.e. conventional.
Shouldn't need a hub puller to get them off, depending on how bad the shoes are stuck. Stuck shoes are usually due to corrosion in the cables stopping the pull off springs from pulling the shoes back, you might have to cut the cables off if they are shagged. Replace them with the red stainless ones.
It's MUCH easier to work on them with the wheels off.
The nuts are supposed to be "One shot" & not re-useable, I have re-used them in the past with a dab of Loctite-no problems. They are tightened to 270nm IIRC, i.e. 'kin tight You won't overtighten them by hand unless you're using a 4' bar. I use an industrial 1/2" impact gun set to 300nm to put mine on.
I suspect you might end up doing a complete re-build, but that's just my experience.

Good luck
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Old 08 August 2013, 04:50   #3
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If you already know you have sticky brakes then I'd suggest detaching the brake cables first, to give you as much chance as possible of getting the drums off.

Then jack it up and spin the wheel, to try and free the shoes off the inside face of the drum. They should rotate freely forwards and backwards. This is much easier with the wheel on, due to the larger diameter of the wheel, something to grab hold of and the physical weight of the wheel too.

Once it's running free take the wheel off (as Dave says - makes it much easier to work on) and take the dust cap off. I have a specific Alko dust cap removal tool, which removes them with out denting / peircing, but you should be able to lever off with a flat blade screwdriver.

As Dave says - the hub nuts are pretty tight, especially if there's a little rust on the thread. The torque settings range between 280Nm and 350Nm. I should imagine yours will be standard ones at 290Nm (+/-10%). Make sure you take the right size socket, standard hub nuts use a 32mm socket.

Undo the nut and the drum should come off. If you get stuck and I can assist over the phone, my number's 07921 853190.

Good luck and all the best.
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Old 08 August 2013, 06:48   #4
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That's great advice both. I'm thinking of removing the breaking hardware until i next run it home, as I only use it on private roads at a max of 40 mph
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Old 08 August 2013, 13:13   #5
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Just doing a service, down RSYC in Hamble and did a two minute vid for you, if it helps:

http://youtu.be/AKUV3CMyjjQ
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Old 08 August 2013, 13:21   #6
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Thanks so much! I'm honoured!
Where did you jack up the trailer, chassis or axle tube?
was the trailer fitted with a prop at the rear?

Thanks again!
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Old 08 August 2013, 13:43   #7
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On the axle, just behind the wheel.
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Old 08 August 2013, 13:45   #8
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Sorry - yes it is. SB20 (old SB3 derivative) have propstands fitted at the rear.
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