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Old 07 January 2009, 09:09   #11
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Thanks guys.
Have to agree with you Doggy, I've been out lunchtime and picked up a coil pack, was 58 but thats not too bad. I'll try it when I get home later.

I've also spent some time on a 206 forum and it does appear to be a weak spot. The one on the car is supposed to be the better one, but only in as much as it doesn't usually spike the ECU when it dies, but does still die.
As mentioned its done @95K miles and is 8 years old, which according to what I've seen is amazing.

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Old 07 January 2009, 14:39   #12
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Well although not a complete waste of 58, but the new coil pack hasn't made a bit of differance.

It does start from cold but runs very rough as if not firing on all four cylinders, and the check engine light flashes on and off. If you give the throttle a stab it revs, but sounds a bit rough, then stalls as the revs fall back down to what should be idle speed.
The new set of plugs aren't showing up one cylinder that appears to be a problem.

From what Matt says the Lambda sensors can't be the issue as its starting from completly cold before the sensors are used.

My trouble is getting it somewhere to plug it in, as I really don't want to drive it very far in case I do some damage, oh and of course I'm working all day.

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Old 07 January 2009, 14:59   #13
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Just a thought, but have you a rotor arm and distributer cap?

When I had problems with rough running of my Rover it was the dizzy rotor arm that was at fault. There is a resistor between the electrode on the end of the rotor arm and the centre brush.

http://rib.net/forum/showthread.php?...over+rotor+arm
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Old 07 January 2009, 15:00   #14
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Nah, this motor doesn't have em.
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Old 07 January 2009, 15:03   #15
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IIRC, the motor will still idle "OK" with the TPS disconnected, so you can safely disconnect that and see if it has an impact - in fact the only sensor I know of it defo won't run without is the MAP & flywheel sensors (And mebbe cam - can't remember if it has a seperate cam sensor too)

Is it hunting in a rich/irregular kind of way, or in a regular 1 cylinder missing way?
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Old 07 January 2009, 15:06   #16
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Nasher

I've got a 2004 206 Gti180, which used to experience exactly the same issues:

* rough on start up
* hunting for revs
* check engine warning light
* conking out (at 80mph on the M25 on a couple of occasions - not pleasant)

It went back to peugeot 8 or 9 time to resolve it - they read the ECU fault readings every time and they were always clear. Therefore they claimed the issue was:

* silicon sealant blocking the connection to the ECU - they soaked the plug in something to remove the silicon apparently
* a faulty ECU - they replaced the ECU
* the electronic fuel tank sensor sending faulty messages to ECU, and the ECU cutting power - advise was to ensure to use super unleaded!
* the ECU requiring a software update - they did this 5 or 6 times

After the last software update it hasn't re-occurred (18 months ago and still got my fingers crossed), however, my gut feeling is that it's sod all to do with that.

The issue only used to occur during summer months, so i think it is a faulty lambda sensor (different air density and temperatures etc) - I asked them to check this on multiple occassions but the ECU fault reading were all clear apparently. As your problem seems to have occurred during the winter months, maybe it's a similar issue?

Anyway - don't got to pug to get an answer, coz it won't happen! Try the lambda, especially as it's only 15, and if it still occurs take it to a decent independent auto-electrician who'll know doubt tell you about all the pugs he fixes on a weekly basis!
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Old 07 January 2009, 18:03   #17
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Thanks everyone, whilst you've been discussing it I've been out in the garage learning all about Pug injection and control systems. But it still isn't right.

TPS - disconnected it, it still started, idled badly, and appeared to still respond to throttle, but as it had no load on it I can't say for certain. reconnected it.

MAP sensor(Well what I think is the MAP sensor, connected by a small bore tube to the inlet after the throttle body via the breather system and with a 2 pin connector) - again disconnected it electrically and no change.

Idle control valve - Thought I'd found it with this as it was all gummed up, and presumed I'd be giving Hightower the prize for guessing it.
Cleaned it out and it idled sweeter and appeared to respond a bit quicker to throttle although still 'hunts' but not nearly as much.
Thought I'd replace the valve tomorrow but take it for a quick test drive.
It now hesitates coming off idle, runs almost OK up to @2K revs, then sounds really rough as though its only running on three and making lots of mechanical noise, then over 3.5K revs it gets better but still feels down on power.
I think I've probably got the idle control valve working better than it was, but don't think this is the main problem as I don't think it could cause the problems over 2K revs, but might be wrong.

Any more thoughts?
If I can get hold of 2 of the 15 Lambda sensors I'll change them.
Hightower do you have a phone number for the guys in Gosport? or even remember the name of the company? They are not responding to my ebay questions.
Will probably try to swap out the idle control valve as well just in case.

EDIT
Just thought, what I should have done is disconnect the idle valve in its shut position and try driving it to see how it runs.

Nasher.
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Old 07 January 2009, 19:37   #18
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TGP sales was the name. I did have their phone number but must have thrown it, so no telephone number for them.

If you'd like me to go down there on Friday afternoon with 30 cash and buy them, then I'm sure I could arrange to meet you at a more acceptable time to do a dodgy deal Just make sure I have the model numbers of the sensors you're after.

With regard the Air valve, I have a tip! Make sure it has no oil inside it and swish some meths around after you finish cleaning with wd40 or whatever. As air gets sucked though the valve the last thing you want is dust sticking to oil.
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Old 08 January 2009, 06:37   #19
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Not my strong point , but have you tried swapping the HT leads ? - if one is intermittently OK could it cause the missing - rough running / down on power ? Just an easy bit to test . They rarely fail so are not usually considered a problem - but I had an Audi that was similar - garage spent days testing this & that , but ended being 6 for 1 new lead. Maybe wouldn't see it affect the plug colour as they would rapidly come back to correct after some ' proper' firing for a few mins .
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Old 08 January 2009, 07:52   #20
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The coil pack is one of the all in one units that bolts down on the top of the plugs doing away with any leads.

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