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Old 17 October 2012, 04:41   #11
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Shameless plug if you look on LR4x4 - The Land Rover Forum in the Technical Archive I am pretty sure there is a step by step guide in there.

Discovery 1 (1989-98 models) are the same bearings as Defenders, as shown in the post above, and can be adjusted or stripped and checked/greased. Discovery 2 (Td5 1999-2004) are different, sealed bearings.
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Old 17 October 2012, 06:10   #12
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I think from what I remember they are fairly easy. well the my range rover ones were ( M reg soft dash 3.9 efi)
so they should be about the same.
you can tighten them up if they are loose and not knackered.
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Old 17 October 2012, 06:20   #13
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This isn't an imposible diy job, but you'll need some specialist kit like the hub nut socket,also known as a 52mm box spanner, as mentioned you may get away with just tightening the existing bearings, but a new set will give peace of mind.
First things first make sure vehicle is securely supported, there'll be a lotta hammering going on, always best to place secondary support under vehicle like the wheel itself with some timber to pack out.
Also worth having some bearing puller's if you are going to change as they can be a right pita to remove sometimes. you'll also find a selection of cold chisel's and lump hammer handy bits of kit to tease things on there way. removal of the old bearings is always the hardest part. using a blow lamp can sometimes help to loosen there grip.
Once removed refitting is pretty straightforward, after greasing, tighten the hub lock nut all the way turning the hub as you go, until it won't turn anymore, then release the hub nut by quarter of a turn or until the hub turns freely with no excess play. always check all washers and locking shims are in place first.
another handy tool is a G clamp for pushing the brake pistons back into the callipers, remembering to slightly loosen the bleed screw to release pressure as the piston goes back in. somtimes just removing the brake fluid refill cap is good enough.
Finally this time of year you may need use of a garage or shelter to do all of the above.
Best of luck.
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Old 17 October 2012, 06:38   #14
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same as on a defender of similar age, hardest part is jacking the thing up and getting the wheels off, all you need then is a decent set of tools and a good vice on a bench while you knock the old bearings out and the new ones in, if you haven't done it before it probably worth investing in the Haynes manual, if nothing else something to read while having a brew. If you buy the bearings off a land rover specialist they will have all the tools you need, including the box spanner. it can't be hard if i can do it..............
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Old 17 October 2012, 17:51   #15
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Thank you for all the advice, going to give it a go on Saturday as long as parts arrive. I've ordered them from the local place but didn't pay attention to them not being open any time when I can pick them up which was a bit of an oversight.
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Old 17 October 2012, 17:59   #16
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another handy tool is a G clamp for pushing the brake pistons back into the callipers, remembering to slightly loosen the bleed screw to release pressure as the piston goes back in. somtimes just removing the brake fluid refill cap is good enough.
Finally this time of year you may need use of a garage or shelter to do all of the above.
Best of luck.[/QUOTE]

I don't bother with the bleed screw I just get a syringe and take some fluid out of the reservoir
Good luck
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Old 17 October 2012, 18:32   #17
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I don't bother with the bleed screw I just get a syringe and take some fluid out of the reservoir
Good luck[/QUOTE]

I agree with you on that one mick av done the same meself, but sum makes/models don't like it, aparantely it can knacker sensors on newer models or sumfin lik that.
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Old 17 October 2012, 21:33   #18
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Never slam the fluid back into master/abs system. Always open the bleeder and put a tube on it.

While you are at it, flush the system often. It is amazing how many brake systems are in need of new fluid since it is hygroscopic. I have test dip strips I use, and 70% of vehicles fail. Unless you have a scanner for modern vehicles you can't get all the fluid but most is better than none. Even just sucking out the reservoir and changing it is better than nothing.

Can't help on the wheel bearings themselves as I have never done one. Many do take specialty pullers though.
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Old 18 October 2012, 02:22   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragonhawk ficht
I don't bother with the bleed screw I just get a syringe and take some fluid out of the reservoir
Good luck
I agree with you on that one mick av done the same meself, but sum makes/models don't like it, aparantely it can knacker sensors on newer models or sumfin lik that.[/QUOTE]

Didn't know that but I only do it on my defender and it is basic no electronic aids at all.
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Old 18 October 2012, 13:41   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mick View Post
Didn't know that but I only do it on my defender and it is basic no electronic aids at all.
Even on an old school vehicle it is important to not push dirty fluid back into the master. A small piece of debris can cause issues.

With that said, there should be no reason to retract the caliper at all doing a wheel bearing. Slide the caliper off and then right back on when going back together. Unless the rotor has a large ridge at the top. Hang the caliper off to the side as trailer guy suggested. Never hang the caliper by it's hose. Bailing wire, zip ties, coat hangers all work.

The torque on the axle end nut that sets up free play at the bearings is probably one of the most critical parts of the job. (Does it really say 37ft lbs? That is low as most vehicles are over 100 ft lbs.)

Per the drawing it looks pretty easy...
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