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Old 21 April 2007, 21:12   #101
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Stoo I envy you, although I hope you have a good dry suit that water must be very very cold. I am thinking of getting certified this summer how hard would it be to rent scuba gear in your area when we are up there?
The surface water temp was 36 today... a little colder at the bottom! And yes I have a good Viking drysuit and cold-water regs etc. If you do get up this way, gear is no problem. There are two shops here, both owned by good friends. In August, the top 10 feet wil be up to perhaps 65F, but it drops a bunch at 30' and below 70 it's mid to high 30s all year. (Although last year, I hit a smoking hot current at 155'... temp got up to 41

I'm glad to hear the painting is going better... It was a grand day on the water today, and looks even better tomorrow!
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Old 23 April 2007, 21:28   #102
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so how did the painting go?
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Old 24 April 2007, 00:06   #103
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Painting went well. The temps stayed between 65-80 the entire weekend which made a huge difference as well as applying thinner layers with better rollers and a little Interlux thinner. I will post pics when I get a chance.
Need to get her flipped back over and reattach the toobs. They are held on with 27 bolts on each side, not sure what kind of order to put them back on or how tight. 10-15 ft·lb ? Any thoughts?
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Old 24 April 2007, 07:41   #104
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Need to get her flipped back over and reattach the toobs. They are held on with 27 bolts on each side, not sure what kind of order to put them back on or how tight. 10-15 ft·lb ? Any thoughts?
Bryan, my 590 is the same sort of setup. It's my understanding that you start at the pointy end and work backwards. The toobs might need to be stretched to fit, possibly using a cable puller gizmo or something. I assume you have nylon-lined nuts ( ) or some similar "locking" type. You don't want the toobs to come flying off of you go airborn!
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Old 24 April 2007, 08:27   #105
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Thanks Stoo that helps. It is attached with nylon locking nuts and I think I have to replace all of them, one time use deal. Need to find some ss ones though. Im hoping I don’t need to use a cable puller. I could have slid the tubes off of the guide rails that bolt to the boat but I was leery since I have heard it can be next to impossible to slide them back on so I decided to remove guide rails with the tube as a unit and reattach as removed.
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Old 24 April 2007, 08:45   #106
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...not sure what kind of order to put them back on or how tight. 10-15 ft·lb ? Any thoughts?
I have done this a few times on some Hurricanes. As Stoo said, start at the bow. Insert as many bolts as you can to start, but do not tighten them. Working towards the stern I have used a couple of awls to stretch the tube and line up a few more bolt holes. Insert bolts a few at a time until you have them all started, then tighten them up. Also, if you are using a sealant between the bolt rope flange on the tube and the lip on the edge of the hull I suggest the "long open time" version of 3M 4200, and a box of disposable latex gloves. Any extra sealant left on the hull/tubes can be cleaned up with some solvent and a lot of rags. Test your new paint job before wiping with solvent!!

BTW, very nice work you guys are doing.
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Old 24 April 2007, 22:59   #107
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Thanks for the replies guys it is much appreciated. We will give it a shot in the next few days. Using a longer setting sealant is a smart idea thanks.
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Old 25 April 2007, 20:44   #108
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Hurry up, put it back together!

As the guys mentioned, bow to stern install is easiest. The hypalon naturally expands and contracts related to heating so you might experience differences when installing if one side is in the sun and one in the shade. If the holes don't line up don't panic, try inflating or deflating the sponsons somewhat or put them in the sun or in the shade depending on whether they are lining up too long or too short, it is surprising how much longer or shorter they get depending on the conditions! I use a couple of phillips screwdrivers and some small vice grips to grap a hold of the fabric and help stretch things, the screwdrivers I use to align the tube flange holes to holes on the hull flange. You may get lucky and have no problem at all, keep some soapy water in a spray bottle ( heavy on the soap) to act as a lubricant if you run into problems, it can help. You shouldn't have much trouble putting it back on. I personally would not use a sealant on the flange but I think this depends on the flange design and the water tightness of it's design.
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Old 26 April 2007, 08:17   #109
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If only I had a garage . It has been raining heavily here for the past 2 days and isn't going to let up till Friday night. I am not going to seal the whole flange, just the bolts / bolt holes. Yesterday I went over to my favorite store Home Depot and cleaned them out of their ss carriage bolts, nylon nuts and washers. Gets a little pricey when you have to buy 54 of everything. A lot of the original bolts are bent but we labeled all of them incase we need to reuse them. Thanks for the reply; I think using a couple screwdrivers to line up the holes is a good idea along with watching the temp of the tubes. Im still wondering just how tight to put the nuts on since I removed all of them with and air ratchet. Maybe I will just put them back on with my impact wrench
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Old 30 April 2007, 20:39   #110
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all quiet in Chicago....

I would have thought you guys would have already put up pics of the new improved paint job, how is it going on the refit?
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