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Old 28 December 2013, 20:29   #151
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I don't want to cut into the console any more. I like it clean and free of clutter. There just isn't that much stuff so I think I can get it all in there. I could pull the ignition panel apart to save space. The gauges are all pretty much optional. I've never had more than a tach with alarms so I know that can be enough. Just lots of options. I want to keep the box to contain the wiring as I have access to the backside under the console for storage, I don't need stuff getting snagged. I have a couple friends with a CNC plasma cutter and another with a water jet so I'll do the panels myself also means I don't have to get it perfect the first time. I only wish we had some place to get it anodized locally. Paint and powdercoat are my local options.

That icom is cool but $400!

Jason
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Old 02 January 2014, 20:08   #152
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Not even half a boat dollar, lol.

Console is a personal preference, so if that is the way you want to go, then more power to you. Looking forward to see the final result.
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Old 07 January 2014, 10:52   #153
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Originally Posted by Bigtalljv View Post
I want to keep the box to contain the wiring as I have access to the backside under the console for storage, I don't need stuff getting snagged.
One other option would be to install panels on spacers over the wiring. Anything tossed in as storage would sit against the panels rather than meshing with the previously permanent wiring.

jky
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Old 07 January 2014, 12:17   #154
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Originally Posted by jyasaki View Post
One other option would be to install panels on spacers over the wiring. Anything tossed in as storage would sit against the panels rather than meshing with the previously permanent wiring.

jky
Yep, already thought about that. The backboard is against the stern wall of the console. all the battery switches and power wiring is exposed there. I definitely want a cover over it. I have some ideas but not sure how I'll do it exactly. Probably mount some aluminum angle to the sides of the console and mount to that. I just need to be able to get that cover off with minimal tools....

jason
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Old 12 January 2014, 21:10   #155
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A little more progress. I got all the connections to the engine run and mostly buttoned up. I'm just stuck with trying to get the hydraulic hoses to lay down in some neat fashion. They only want to bend the way they were coiled up. Do I fight them or try to twist the whole length now that I have run them through the chase tubes? That seemed to be the kicker, right turn, down turn, forward and they got angry.

Also got the basic electric wired, power to the engine and the batteries and switches installed. No pictures of that. It's neat but I have wires that cross over others so it's not fit to be seen.

Jason
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Old 05 February 2014, 01:52   #156
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Getting closer. my leaning post showed up today. I got that measured out so then I could put in my new hatch. Took my nice new deck and chopped it up.
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Old 05 February 2014, 11:16   #157
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I got that measured out so then I could put in my new hatch.
Old Freeman or new Freeman hatch? If you've cleaned up the old one, any tips on lubricating it up?

How does the leaning post look?
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Old 05 February 2014, 11:22   #158
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This is the aft deck? Looking good. Project is coming along nicely now.

Question, you cut the top off your old tank and used that forward right? How heavy is that thing? I might do the same as a temporary thing and then fabricate a lighter one later. Or maybe it's not worth reusing the old tank top. Not sure.
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Old 05 February 2014, 11:41   #159
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the leaning post looks great. 30" wide fits the boat perfectly. I'll get some better pics later.

yes, my new aft deck. I had moved the console forward 12" and lost rear drive cover so I had made this out of some 3/4 ply and glassed it.

Old Bomar hatch from the master of yellow inflatable builds. Bomar seems to be the supplier through time. My forward one was a very old one, this is a newer model. He even cut out the deck ring you see on the second picture so it makes install that much easier.

Lubricating what? The handle? It's easy and a PITA all at the same time. Hard part is all the screws on both mine are seized nice and tight. If you can get it apart the guts are easy. Two standard size grease seals and a plastic bushing. They sell rebuild kits for $45 with all the parts at Hamilton Marine and such. I rebuilt (new guts and a new fabricated handle) the forward hatch and it works like a charm.

The top plate is like 20 or 30 lbs, it's heavy. They didn't skimp on anything, bigger must be better. It's not too hard to chop up the old tank once you know the baffle is plug welded to the top and you have to get in there and cut that off too.
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Old 05 February 2014, 14:26   #160
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Leaning post. 36" tall. (I'm 6'7") and 30" wide. If I sell a kid I can get a 50q yeti under it. Has 25" width for cooler.

Jason
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