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Old 19 February 2009, 02:10   #11
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Country: USA
Town: honolulu
Boat name: no name
Make: Zodiac
Length: 7m +
Engine: twin 90 mercs- petro
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 84
Im thinking 8-10 divers, and up to 15 on snorkel tours. BUT, I have not sized up the boat yet with gear, so the numbers may go down. I just got the boat in a few days ago, check out the pic it looks like it wants to eat my truck!
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Old 19 February 2009, 11:45   #12
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Country: USA
Town: San Diego
Boat name: Stormbringer
Make: Avon Searider 5.4
Length: 5m +
Engine: 90hp Mariner
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 89
Thats on big SIB!

I was pretty surprised you could tow it with that little Explorer Sportrac!!
It got to be pretty scary going around corners!
I can only imagine the way that thing looks out the rearview mirror! Its like you are being chased by the Navy Seals
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Old 19 February 2009, 13:58   #13
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Country: USA
Town: Oakland CA
Length: 3m +
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 6,653
Zodiac lists bare weight at about 700 lbs, max engine weight at 510 lbs. Together, plus fuel, still substantially less than a ton.

Should be able to pull that with almost anything (though, as you mentioned, seeing out the back is another matter.)

jky
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Old 19 February 2009, 19:42   #14
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Country: USA
Town: Fairfield
Boat name: Sunrider
Make: Zodiac
Length: 7.3
Engine: MerCruiser (bio)diesel 180hp I/O
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 298
Looks like the boat is in great condition - congratulations! I had one one of these a few years ago but my experience with it was mostly in repairs and modifications rather than on-water experience...sold it once it held air and was in good shape. But I've been on several mark V and mark VI's and can assure you they are a very reliable boat, and they've been used in many expeditions.

You're probably already familiar with these resources, but two companies on Kauai are perhaps as experienced with these boats as anyone in the world. The first, of course, is Captain Zodiac....they routinely modify these boats to meet cabotage laws so they can be used commercially to carry passengers with their ocean rafting business (boats made outside the US cannot be used for that purpose unless significant modification has been made). The second resource is Pacific Basin Inflatables - they also have done a lot of work on the mark VI and I found both companies to be of great help to me when I was working on my project.

I assume that by now you've seen that almost anything can be fastened to the deck, provided that thru bolts are used with large backing plates (without any sharp edges on the underside). Also, if your stringers have slots on the inboard side above the deck then they will accommodate a sliding ring to which many types of equipment can be fastened.

good luck with the project, and keep us posted with pictures if you have time. aloha....
bryan
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Old 04 March 2009, 06:11   #15
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Country: UK - England
Town: Saltash, Cornwall
Make: Rib less:-(
Length: no boat
Join Date: Sep 2002
Posts: 693
Avius
When I had mine (Mk.V) I discovered that with a normal length shaft outboard (yam 2S 50hp hand steer) the cavitation plate needed to be below the hull. This was because when you accelerate you lift up on the futura tubes (the little ones under the main tubes) and if the engine has been set where you would normally have it on a rib it lifts up and ventilates Thus we accelerated well then when just coming onto the plane we ventilated and dropped off. Solution would have been to lower the transom or get a long shaft engine as recommended! Your transom looks a lot lower than mine did, but the point is still worth remembering.
Often wish I still had it as its the best pure inflatable I have driven, but in big seas a rib beats it hands down.
Rgds
James
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Old 17 March 2009, 00:24   #16
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Country: USA
Town: honolulu
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Make: Zodiac
Length: 7m +
Engine: twin 90 mercs- petro
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 84
Great Info!!

Thanks for all the great info fellas. All advice is welcome and very much appreciated! ;-)

SUNRIDER: You say that most of your experience with your mark vi was repairs? Well mine seems to have a slow leak on the port speed tube, and a fast leak at the base of the valve extension on the starboard speedtube. I think i'll b able to tackle the the slow leak, but i'm a bit worried about the one on the valve extension. Any good info u could share to help me along?

BTW

I just cleaned her up real nice with Aurora Speed Clean, and polyguard. Ill post some new pics tommorrow.
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Old 17 March 2009, 08:08   #17
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Country: USA
Town: Fairfield
Boat name: Sunrider
Make: Zodiac
Length: 7.3
Engine: MerCruiser (bio)diesel 180hp I/O
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 298
I had a similar problem on my Mark VI as I recall - in my case I cut out the extension tube with it's base entirely, glued the valve extension to a new piece of fabric then glued that piece back onto the speed tube. I had tried a couple of fixes with the valve in place first but had trouble with wrinkles and subsequent leaks so it proved easier to do the joining work of stem to tube out of the boat. It's been years since I did the work so my memory has as many holes at the boat did, but that was the general idea. Some of the forum members have really worked magic with their repairs so you might get some better ideas if you could post a picture of the specific problem.

Sounds like you're making good progress...look forward to following your work...
bryan
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Old 20 March 2009, 15:04   #18
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Country: USA
Town: honolulu
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Length: 7m +
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Posts: 84
Cleaning her up

Well here are a few pics I took after giving her scrub down with Aurora Speed Clean and Poly-Guard.
Unfortunately after a thorough cleaning I noticed that the hydraulic steering hoses had burst, and leaked fluid under the deck. I spent all day today pulling out the aluminum deck and cleaning the mess. Its a good thing too because apparently it had been a long time since the deck was removed!! I found two ropes and a number of screws, washers, and all kinds of other junk! I also found that the valve of the inflatable keel is leaking. So far that totals 3 air leaks.
While the deck is out I'll clean it up too. Anyone know any good techniques for restoring anodized Aluminum?
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Old 20 March 2009, 15:19   #19
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Make: Zodiac
Length: 7m +
Engine: twin 90 mercs- petro
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Posts: 84
Before Pic

I forgot to load a pic of before I used the cleaning products... Here it is, HUGE difference. :-)

-AV
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Old 22 March 2009, 12:43   #20
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Country: USA
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Make: zodiac futura mk2
Length: 4m +
Engine: Nissan 40 plus
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Posts: 264
Using an anchor bridal attached to the two side d rings is the best way to go when anchoring your SIB. The boat will ride better, not kite around as much and you won't have chafing issues on the tube tops. I do take a slack piece of the anchor line and tie it off inside the boat as insurance. Attaching anything heavy or with leverage to the aluminum flooring is always a challenge. The top sheet isn't strong enough on it's own, it will flex and crack under load if the attachment point is small in surface area. However, a nice aluminum plate across the aluminum floor that bolts to backing plates inside the hollow floor sections, which key into the locking side rails when assembled is very effective.







Rail sections are great for strapping things down, but any twist, rack or play in a heavier or more leveraged assembly will lead to wear. My Zodiac Futura track didn't like the play in my seat assembly and this is the result.





None of the equipment, console, benches or ski poles that are attached with backing plates and cross plates has had any issue at all. Just a suggestion for a possible method of attachment to your floor.

Remember, those nice frames you see on RIBS are counterbalanced by the weight of the solid hull. Try to keep your weight low and avoid making the SIB top heavy. Racks and frames should be as short as possible. A really big bimini top might be preferable to a solid framed shade structure. All of the RIB owners here on Ribnet have it sooo good. I would be stoked to have a real hull to bolt into and more weight to handle the gear! Good luck!
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