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Old 25 March 2014, 11:31   #81
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Let us know how it works for you. Best test (pain in the butt, I know) would be a comparison with and without the PT installed.

Luck;

jky
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Old 30 March 2014, 15:02   #82
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Screws flipped and will report back when I test drive it.

I'd like to get some advice on routine maintenance as I am getting motor and boat ready for this season. I bought the motor used last fall. What should be done? Lower unit gear oil change? I have an impeller replacement kit but how complicated it that to do? Any routine maintenance that I am missing?
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Old 31 March 2014, 13:13   #83
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2-stroke? Plugs, LU oil, any fuel filter that happens to be there, and impeller, should you wish to tackle it (if it cools alright, you could leave it as long as you watch for signs of it failing.) Not really a whole lot else to do unless you want to strip and clean the carbs, at least as far as I know (not really a 2-stroke guy.)

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Old 22 June 2014, 19:06   #84
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Anyone have suggestions for where to take the Suzuki in for service in Portland, OR? I'd like to do the impeller and oil before my next trip.

What are the signs that the impeller needs replacing? How do you know if it cools ok?
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Old 22 June 2014, 20:42   #85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F470 View Post
Anyone have suggestions for where to take the Suzuki in for service in Portland, OR? I'd like to do the impeller and oil before my next trip.

What are the signs that the impeller needs replacing? How do you know if it cools ok?
I do mine every season, it lets you inspect the housing for scoring and any signs of damage to the impeller from debris of melting due to a stray plastic bag or kelp/weed blockage of the water inlet. My boat usage is only in the open sea so I only expect what I inspect, if the impeller is in my hand I'm replacing it with a fresh OEM part even if the water was peeing out the lower leg.

Cheers, Squid
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Old 22 June 2014, 22:45   #86
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School a newbie on outboard maintenance

Impeller and oil change looks pretty straightforward actually so I've decided to do it myself since I have all the parts.

Where do I get an oil hand pump with a threaded fitting that fits the oil drain hole? Would an auto store have it? Also do you use grease anywhere in this process? If so, where and what kind?
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Old 22 June 2014, 22:52   #87
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Next to the oil vent/drain screw there is a flush screw. Do you flush it here after every time you've run it in salt water?
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Old 22 June 2014, 23:14   #88
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Either flush with the adaptor through the screw plugged port (motor off; the adaptor may be hard to find depending on the motor brand), or put it on muffs and run the motor at idle for several minutes.

I generally try to flush after every trip; I don't feel too bad if I miss once in a while.

As to the other post, grease parts that fit closely together (splines on prop and driveshaft) to keep salt water from getting in and crystalizing. Makes it hard to get stuff apart.

Impeller should be changed every year or two. Problem isn't simply that it stops pumping water; it's more that you don't want it to happen when you really need the motor (think many miles from recovery point, in current or with decent sized waves.) Replacing before it fails means it will be as dependable as it can be.

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Old 25 June 2014, 17:22   #89
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I got what I needed from Worst Marine. Will hopefully get to it this week.
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Old 05 July 2014, 22:45   #90
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I didn't get to the oil/impeller change yet but I did notice today while on the water that the water doesn't stream out the top of the motor, its more like a sputter. Could this indicate that the water impeller is not functioning correctly?

I am also having what I believe to be a loose cable related to the ignition switch. Lately it will not always start when turning the key. No 'clicking' noise so I don't even think the starter is engaging. It pull starts just fine.
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