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Old 12 November 2013, 12:39   #71
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That leg looks far too long for that transom !!
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Old 12 November 2013, 12:41   #72
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Standard "problem" with all F470 they come with 18" transom. Short shaft is too short, long shaft is too long. Go figure. I'm sure there is a good reason for it that doesn't really apply to our civilian use.
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Old 12 November 2013, 17:39   #73
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So I'm going to have to fabricate a transom riser plate? I get the boat back in a couple of weeks so I will report back once I have taken better measurements.
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Old 12 November 2013, 23:15   #74
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Either that or jack plate.
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Old 16 November 2013, 20:34   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SIBRider View Post
Standard "problem" with all F470 they come with 18" transom. Short shaft is too short, long shaft is too long. Go figure. I'm sure there is a good reason for it that doesn't really apply to our civilian use.
These are the following shaft lengths for the current f470's
Z80226 is a 15" transom
Z80224 is a 18" transom
Z80247 is a 20" transom
Aztec F470 is also a 20"
Berry f470's started as 20" and now are 18"

The army buys Z80224's and the Air Force buys Z80247's. the most common is the 18" transom with a 20" shaft motor.

The 15" transom is seldom sold as only Tohatsu make a 50hp 15" outboard, everyone else has 20" shafts.
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Old 24 November 2013, 18:42   #76
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So do most people use a riser plate then in order to accommodate a 20" motor on an 18" transom?

Looks like my transom is about 4.75 - 5" above the cavity plate on my motor. Its about level with the fins above the cavity plate.

I just spent a lot of time and effort rebuilding the transom so I'm not particularly motivated to remove it all and drill holes in the transom in order to be able to use a riser.

Am I better off with a short shaft? Looks like fuel economy took a major hit on my last trip as well.



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Originally Posted by kiwiboyd View Post
These are the following shaft lengths for the current f470's Z80226 is a 15" transom Z80224 is a 18" transom Z80247 is a 20" transom Aztec F470 is also a 20" Berry f470's started as 20" and now are 18" The army buys Z80224's and the Air Force buys Z80247's. the most common is the 18" transom with a 20" shaft motor. The 15" transom is seldom sold as only Tohatsu make a 50hp 15" outboard, everyone else has 20" shafts.
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Old 23 March 2014, 21:56   #77
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Where did you purchase your transom riser plate?

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Originally Posted by SIBRider View Post
How low is anti-cavitation plate in relation to hull/keel. What trim settings are you riding with.

Most likely you have to raise motor considerably depending on shaft length for good performance/economy/reduced splashing. That would most likely mean bolting it to transom. Clamps won't allow it to go high enough. You might be able to do that without building riser if it's short enough. But for example in my case (22" leg) top bolt would basically line up with edge of transom. My motor doesn't have height adjustment holes like larger outboards do.


Hydrofoil will not address this issue at all. Your gear case rides way too low.
Anti-cavitation plate sits way under water at this time. Deflector plate - one above flange that connects gear case to lower leg is likely under water too or to low to offset big bow wave created by low hanging gear case/leg cutting water. Water creeps up transom and leg splashes everywhere. Low riding gear case creates immense drag that slows you down and wastes fuel.
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Old 24 March 2014, 12:17   #78
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I installed a Permatrim yesterday. I know I need a transom riser as well but I am interested in seeing what difference this makes if any.

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Originally Posted by jyasaki View Post
AFAIK, no standard for bolt patterns.

I'd look at the Permatrim line if I had to replace mine (might anyway if I ever get some disposable income.)

They're distributed in the US by Shipyard Island Marina, I think.


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Old 24 March 2014, 20:29   #79
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Installation of the Permatrim
I'm afraid the bolts are on the wrong side. As soon as you will reach planning speed (when the height of the engine is correct) water flow will be under the anti-cavitation plate. This is why you want the smoothest parts (bolt head instead of the nut) under the anti-cavitation plate.
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Old 24 March 2014, 20:34   #80
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Thanks! I thought about it and I had poor directions that didn't mention screw orientation. Easy enough to change around.
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