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Old 21 July 2014, 17:21   #111
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Good news is they got them out successfully. The bad news is they over charged me. The guy doing the work called when he started and when he finished. 1hr 50min in between the calls. When I get there they charged me for 4 hours = $360. I am going back there now to get a $90 credit but it's still not the $180 they would have charged me for two hours. Sigh.

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I don't know about a Suz specifically, but they are all threaded on every lower unit I've seen. (admittedly only about 6 or 8 total)

I would not use 304 grade stainless, its terrible in salt water. 316 is as good as you can get although the issue (as you have discovered) is dissimilar metal corrosion not corrosion of the bolt itself. The price difference between 304 and 316 is probably less than $1 a bolt.

I would have a machine shop extract them. $100/hr is pretty cheap compared to a new lower unit if you were to crack the casing. If they crack the casing, good luck fighting over who pays for that then...
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Old 21 July 2014, 18:17   #112
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I negotiated it down to $210. They tried to pull a fast one. Moving on!

What silicone sealant, gasket sealant and other grease should I use to reassemble the lower unit?
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Old 21 July 2014, 18:35   #113
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The drive shaft spines most needing grease are the prop shaft splines!

I'm not sure about the gasket material. That's pretty cheesy of your machine shop...
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Old 21 July 2014, 18:38   #114
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Regular grease? High heat? What about gasket material for the upper/bottom unit seal?

Don't get me started. Very reputable and have been in business since 1927. I'm going to do them a favor and not mention their name. The guy who did the work did great job but the billing dept obviously tried to stiff me. Needless to say I'm not going back there.
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Old 21 July 2014, 18:59   #115
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I just use grease from my trailer bearing gun. Its not a high heat area and mostly just to keep the prop splines from seizing. Anything which forms a water barrier until you next change the prop works.

At least on my Yam the powerhead end spines are lightly greased. Not sure why they'd tell you to keep those upper splines bare?
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Old 21 July 2014, 19:02   #116
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This is what the manual says.
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Old 21 July 2014, 19:16   #117
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That's what I suspected. Basically a big goop of grease up inside there would push the driveshaft down into the gearcase and force the driveshaft to "flex" since there's no place for the grease in the powerhead hole to go. You don't want the driveshaft to be even 1mm longer due to grease in the powerhead recess so its not greased.

I wouldn't worry about it. If the top splines are wet you have bigger problems than the seizing of the shaft in the powerhead...

The prop shaft splines are most definitely greased.
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Old 21 July 2014, 19:37   #118
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I'd guess any kind of silicone sealant will be fine for the case joint; It's not like you're trying to seal water out of there; the thing gets submerged and has a bunch of holes in it, doesn't it?

For prop, as Jack says, whatever you've got on hand.

To disagree with Jack, I'd say go with the 304/18-8 if that's what you've got. Just make sure you get something to seal the thread recesses (Loctite, anti-seize or grease) so you don't get corrosion in the threads, and figure on changing the bolts every couple of years. It'll still be better than zinc plated or HDG mild steel.

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Old 21 July 2014, 20:51   #119
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Aha. I think I know what's going on here. I removed the lower unit without removing the prop and prop shaft first so the drive shaft is still attached to the lower unit. I noticed some specialty tools are needed to remove the prop and I don't have them. Can I get by with replacing the impeller and seals without disassembling the pop and prop shaft? I understand it needs to be greased but I am a little weary opening that can of worms since I've never done it before and I don't have the right tools. At this point I was just going to replace impeller and seal and reassemble everything then change the lower gear case oil.

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That's what I suspected. Basically a big goop of grease up inside there would push the driveshaft down into the gearcase and force the driveshaft to "flex" since there's no place for the grease in the powerhead hole to go. You don't want the driveshaft to be even 1mm longer due to grease in the powerhead recess so its not greased.

I wouldn't worry about it. If the top splines are wet you have bigger problems than the seizing of the shaft in the powerhead...

The prop shaft splines are most definitely greased.
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Old 21 July 2014, 23:40   #120
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[QUOTE=F470;634357]Aha. I think I know what's going on here. I removed the lower unit without removing the prop and prop shaft first so the drive shaft is still attached to the lower unit.{/quote]

Ummm.... Doesn't make a difference.


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I noticed some specialty tools are needed to remove the prop and I don't have them.
I use a 6" piece of 2 x 4 (pine, redwood, whatever I can find - used firewood once) and an appropriately sized socket on a breaker bar. Pliers to get the split pin out (may not be needed if you have a tab washer.) That's it.




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Can I get by with replacing the impeller and seals without disassembling the pop and prop shaft?
Yup. The impeller sits above the prop and gears, on the (looking at the other way) input to the gearcase.


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I understand it needs to be greased but I am a little weary opening that can of worms since I've never done it before and I don't have the right tools. At this point I was just going to replace impeller and seal and reassemble everything then change the lower gear case oil.
Not really that big a deal. Once you drop the LU, you can access the impeller on the top of the part you dropped. The gearcase oil is self contained in the same part (though I've always done that with the LU attached to the rest of the motor.)

If you go on thehulltruth.com and search for "F115 impeller replacement", there used to be a great illustrated guide. Should be roughly the same for your motor.

jky
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