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Old 08 December 2006, 14:59   #1
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Make: Nautica Widebody 22
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Replacing Trim Tabs with Smart Tabs

I have the Lenco Trim Tabs on my 22' Nautica RIB. They are very effective when you set them up for a certain seas state put you can't effectively change them without taking your hand off the throttle. I have been at high speeds some times and wish I could have used the trim tabs to smooth things out but it is difficult to do. It seem to make sense that you would want to have your trim tabs on the throttle that way you can adjust them while still working with the trottle and steerting simultaneously.

The smart tab system seems to do this automatically via their design and I was thinking about changing my existing ones out for this setup. Any thoughts?
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Old 08 December 2006, 18:54   #2
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Seems like a counter-intuitive move, reducing your control over your boat, but if you can't effectively operate the Lenco's, it probably makes sense. I love the SmartTabs on my 5.4 SeaRider, I highly recommend them. Pretty rare to find any sort of tabs on boats in this size range...

I'd say go for it, and if you find you like the SmartTabs better, you should easily be able to eBay the Lencos and have the cost be a wash. I found my SmartTabs on eBay, BTW at nearly 1/2 price.
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Old 09 December 2006, 01:20   #3
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clue?

So clue me in. What, exactly, are these trims tabs needed for? Did the boats not operate properly to start with, or do these help most any boat? I'm curious for a couple of reasons. I'll read web sites to see what these are, exactly, and their biased take on what good they are. In the meantime, pls advise. Thanks. j
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Old 09 December 2006, 09:29   #4
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The trim tabs I have now really make a difference, you can definately change the way the boat rides and reduce any sort of chine walking, but they just are hard to use effectively while you are running fast. I use more throttle and trim to keep the boat balanced and really don't use the tabs, but it seems as though the smart tabs would really help from what I read so far. I think the lenco trim tabs make more sense for bigger and heavier boats that aren't as fast and can't manuver like a RIB.
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Old 10 December 2006, 01:50   #5
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may help?

Do any of you think these Smart Tabs would help w/ my flooding problem? I bought a 6.5 m Ribcraft last summer, and found that when loaded (about 1200 lbs) and I got up to 4K rpm, water poured in over the transom. We did our best to load heavy stuff in the bow, too, and don't think that was a problem. There was/is no prob damage, no crap on the motor (dead seals, etc) or stuck to the hull (aluminum). I can not trim the motor down any more, and have to have it trimmed absolutely down even when empty. Might these trim tabs help raise the stern a tad? No idea where floor comes from. 150 Honda on it. Runs 42 mph at WOT, empty. Any ideas appreciated. john
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Old 10 December 2006, 09:39   #6
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Maybe the engine is not mounted at the correct height on the transom? Could even be the wrong prop - you may need one with more stern lift. I don't think trim tabs should be used to correct bad setup or underlying probs - get them sorted first.
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Old 10 December 2006, 14:47   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jklingel View Post
Do any of you think these Smart Tabs would help w/ my flooding problem? I bought a 6.5 m Ribcraft last summer, and found that when loaded (about 1200 lbs) and I got up to 4K rpm, water poured in over the transom.
I'm trying to picture this. My boat has a high transom, and the motor is mounted on an extended pod (similar to bracket, but uses the hull plates as the extension.) At 4000 rpm, the waterline at the stern is probably 4 to 6 inches lower than it is at rest. This, of course, assumes you are getting at least somewhat on plane at the rpm.

So, I guess my question is: Are you on plane when the water is coming in, or are you wallowing forward trying to get on plane?

Trim tabs will help planing to some degree, but if something is wrong with the motor/hull setup to the extent that you have difficulties getting up, the tabs are not going to be a cure.

jky
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Old 11 December 2006, 03:06   #8
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may well be

Cod: Another individual mentioned raising the motor after he saw the pics I sent him. As it won't be thawed here till May, I will have to wait to see if that helps. What has the motor depth got to do w/ back-wash? Too much turbulence from the motor itself? I don't know the physics at play here at all.
Jk: a different prop? Never thought of that. What specs would I want to be different from mine? More/less pitch? More/less diameter? My prop is SS, btw. As far as being on plane, I am well on plane. I wonder, though, if the bow is up a tad too high; sure wish I could trim that Honda down a bit and maybe bring the bow down, just to see if it would help. (Transom wedges are in the mix; may try them.) Thank you both for the ideas; keep 'em coming. j
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Old 11 December 2006, 08:23   #9
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Try to cure the problem before fitting wedges etc - if all else fails then go for it.

Another possibility is to fit a transom jack with some setback - you can muck around with the height as well. An expensive solution though!!!
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Old 11 December 2006, 09:16   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by codprawn View Post
Maybe the engine is not mounted at the correct height on the transom?
I had a similar problem with my last boat, although at lower revs. Cod's suggestion is a good one. In my case, I had enough play in the engine mounts that I was able to raise the engine an inch or so and that solved the problem.

When you have the opportunity, have someone else drive the boat at 4000 RPM while you have a good look over the transom. I suspect you will find that the cavitation plate is riding low in the water and the lower unit is simply pushing water back up and over the transom. Try not to fall out of the boat while you're looking!
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