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Old 17 June 2014, 17:26   #11
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I may bead blast and anodize the floor. I got a reasonable quote for it despite its size. It can be done without disassembly, even with the adhesive in place as it is not a heat process. Will Alumi-weld anodize? Should I not bother patching holes?

My concern is the structural stability. One of the boards has a crack on the edge and the top skin buckled during installation. Any idea why the rails are glued, not welded or bolted in place? Seems that if the rails were welded on it would add more stability.

I hope to take it out and do another fitting session this week. If I can just get the boards to interlock snugly without gaps it should be fine.

Thanks for the mat ideas. I've been looking at Rubber-Cal Paw-Grip mats as they come in rolls that could cover the entire length but they're expensive. I'm also considering applying an anti-skid spray to the center section of the floor boards as an alternative to a mat. My friend used it for a different application. Creates a clear, toothy texture with anti-slip properties.
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Old 17 June 2014, 18:41   #12
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Originally Posted by F470 View Post
I may bead blast and anodize the floor. I got a reasonable quote for it despite its size. It can be done without disassembly, even with the adhesive in place as it is not a heat process. Will Alumi-weld anodize? Should I not bother patching holes?

My concern is the structural stability. One of the boards has a crack on the edge and the top skin buckled during installation. Any idea why the rails are glued, not welded or bolted in place? Seems that if the rails were welded on it would add more stability.

I hope to take it out and do another fitting session this week. If I can just get the boards to interlock snugly without gaps it should be fine.

Thanks for the mat ideas. I've been looking at Rubber-Cal Paw-Grip mats as they come in rolls that could cover the entire length but they're expensive. I'm also considering applying an anti-skid spray to the center section of the floor boards as an alternative to a mat. My friend used it for a different application. Creates a clear, toothy texture with anti-slip properties.
Alumi-weld is Zinc based brazing/soldering I don't think it will anodize in same solution. Side rails are normally clamp on. No glue is involved.
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Old 17 June 2014, 18:43   #13
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Sorry.. not the stringers but the aluminum U-shaped tracks on top of the floor panels. Those are glued on on mine.
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Old 18 June 2014, 16:21   #14
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More Photos

I took the floor apart and here are some more photos. Even though it appears from the top that the panels aren't fully flush it turns out the are indeed flush. See photo. One of the panels end pieces is loose and wiggles around and has a crack in it. This concerns me a bit. Should I try to weld this so it doesn't move? There are some holes with what appears to be inserts. Are those steel inserts or just remnant corrosion from some other part? Also there are some corrosion holes. Should I fix those with alumiweld? Not sure there is much else I can do to fit the panels together more snugly. I suppose I could trim the back end panel slightly in order to reduce pressure lengthwise but I am hesitant to do an irreversible modification. I just don't want the thrust board to delaminate from the pressure (it already is in one corner).
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Old 18 June 2014, 17:56   #15
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I took the floor apart and here are some more photos. Even though it appears from the top that the panels aren't fully flush it turns out the are indeed flush. See photo. One of the panels end pieces is loose and wiggles around and has a crack in it. This concerns me a bit. Should I try to weld this so it doesn't move? There are some holes with what appears to be inserts. Are those steel inserts or just remnant corrosion from some other part? Also there are some corrosion holes. Should I fix those with alumiweld? Not sure there is much else I can do to fit the panels together more snugly. I suppose I could trim the back end panel slightly in order to reduce pressure lengthwise but I am hesitant to do an irreversible modification. I just don't want the thrust board to delaminate from the pressure (it already is in one corner).
Looks like joint is of different design. . Holes are mostly about aesthetics at least some of F470 with rigid floor have holes naturally for carry handles

If crack is concern I'd rather plate and rivet it. Welding thin aluminum is tricky. It would depend what alloy it is. How wide are panels at the bottom including those ears.
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Old 21 June 2014, 17:13   #16
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Questions for owners of FC-470 with Aluminium Floors

I measured the floor. How does this compare to your floors?

Width: 40.25" (lip to lip).
Length (assembled): 101.85"
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Old 21 June 2014, 17:58   #17
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Questions for owners of FC-470 with Aluminium Floors

Bear with me on all the questions just trying to make sure I don't wreck the boat or the floor by not having it fit correctly.

So when all but one panel are fitted snugly there's about 3" of overlap as you can see here. I also included an image of what it looks like before you push it in place. Does this look normal? Should the boat be completely without air when installing or it ok to have it halfway pumped up? I figured it may stretch more without any air.
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Old 21 June 2014, 17:59   #18
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Old 22 June 2014, 14:04   #19
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I measured mine to 101 but that's home brew. Pretty close. It's on the boat so can measure width exactly but I believe it was tad wider at like 40.75.
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Old 28 August 2014, 17:23   #20
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Quote:
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Bear with me on all the questions just trying to make sure I don't wreck the boat or the floor by not having it fit correctly.

So when all but one panel are fitted snugly there's about 3" of overlap as you can see here. I also included an image of what it looks like before you push it in place. Does this look normal? Should the boat be completely without air when installing or it ok to have it halfway pumped up? I figured it may stretch more without any air.
Sorry coming in late to this thread but I have some insight. I've had dozens of F470s over the years and I've run into this before. I came to the conclusion the hard deck floors are all the same length and the variations were in the boats themselves. I don't know if it was design changes, manufacturing tolerances or whatever but some boats interior dimensions were 1-2" shorter than others. When I first ran into this I had the exact same scenario: floor seemed to be 2-3" too long for the boat. Keep in mind the floors are supposed to fit "tight" however this was excessively so.

Not knowing any better (this was the first time we encountered this), and on the advise of another buddy who had extensive experience with these attack ducks, we just forced the floor in. At first it seemed fine. About a month later the boat developed a leak. The source of the leak wasn't apparent until the next time I dropped it in the water...it was bubbling out the edges of the thrustboard in the bow on one side. Look closely where the thrustboard meets the floor. There are about 4 seams that overlap there. The stress pulled it apart. Talk about a nightmare repair...had to make a 9" access cut in the tube and patch from the inside then use inside and outside patches on the access cut. The repair was bombproof (had a climate controlled shop at the time) but was a royal PITA. Long story short: if the floor is more than 1" longer than the boat DO NOT force it.

What we ended up doing was disassembling the rearmost floor unit (knock off the side rails, they come right off) then we slid out one of the "short" aluminum subsections and reassembled it. I want to say it subtracted about 1.5-2" from the floor length. It fit perfect after that. Be careful though do not make the floor too short...ran into that too and the result will be a leak at the transom where the tube met at the bottom from chafing the the too-short floor...ask me how I know :-/

Good Luck!
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