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Old 21 May 2007, 07:03   #21
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Re bad seal

I had this same problem last season with fishing line, although I have Yamaha motors. The outermost seal is installed from the outside with my motors, I am wondering if it might be the same for your motor. I fiddled around with it for a while and was able to get it out without taking anything apart, Used a piece of pipe to tap it squarely back in, fixed my leak caused by the line and I never did install the innermost one, still in my tool box.
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Old 21 May 2007, 10:56   #22
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Thanks Pat
I was considering that approach as mine is fitted from the outside. If I can get the old one out with damaging the housing it would be worth a try for the cost of a seal.
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Old 21 May 2007, 11:30   #23
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Dumb question maybe

When running engine on muffs does it have to run long enough for the thermostate to open to get water out of the tell tale? this on a 200 merc. Do not have a temp gauge and do not know at this time if the over temp. alarm works.
Thanks.
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Old 22 May 2007, 14:15   #24
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Thanks Pat
I was considering that approach as mine is fitted from the outside. If I can get the old one out with damaging the housing it would be worth a try for the cost of a seal.
Managed to get the seal out from the outside. Took about an hour tippy tapping to collapse the steel outer ring. Got a few scratchs/nicks in the housing but will grind up a scraper from an old hacksaw blade and fix that. New seal and standby water pump kit now on order. Good price. $47.00 inc. shipping.
Thanks again Pat for the tip.
PS. the fishing line actually managed to get itself behind the outer seal
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Old 22 May 2007, 19:06   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Limey Linda View Post
When running engine on muffs does it have to run long enough for the thermostate to open to get water out of the tell tale? this on a 200 merc. Do not have a temp gauge and do not know at this time if the over temp. alarm works.
Thanks.
Nice job on the seal!

You should be able to tell if it's overheating by holding your hand on the block-shut it down if it gets too hot to keep your hand there.

Are you getting water out of the prop centre?
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Old 22 May 2007, 19:29   #26
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Hey Nos
Thanks for the reply. You are the Man. Yes, getting water out of the prop. hub.
Getting that seal out without damage is a real buugger. I ground a slight rad. on an small elec. screwdriver and polished off any sharp edges, to use as a chisel. You must remove the inner steel ring first, that is easy. Just takes a lot of patience on the outer ring but once the wall is collapsed all the way round it pops right out.
Best of luck with your new RIB.
T.
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Old 22 May 2007, 21:55   #27
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Project Lomac moves along...

Good to hear you were able to remove your seal without too much trouble. Tony, when you get time post up some more pics of your boat, I would be interested in seeing a little more in detail on your project and I am sure there are many others as well.
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Old 25 May 2007, 19:40   #28
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A little progress

Well. stuff started to arive this week. Mercury Service Manual, Tuff Coat hypalon paint, West marine black hypalon paint and the o/hauled steering cylinder. Now I have to decide what to do next. Have done a few tests with the Tuff Coat and West marine paint on bad spots that will need several coats to build up. Fortunately the weather is good; hot and low humidity so stuff dries fast. Hear are a few pics. I keep that big shopvac in the boat for clear up and inflating the tubes which it does in about 1 min. per chamber; I have 5 chambers. I am most impressed with the West Marine black paint. It dries hard enough to sand but remains flexible. It is expensive @ $47.00 per quart. The base coat on the Tuff coat takes two days to dry even in this climate; the top coat is red. Anyone got any tips on how to remove that" bum fluff" at seams and edges of patches easily. I have been using an xacto knife but it takes forever . Perhaps I will try the missus's nail scissors
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Old 25 May 2007, 22:17   #29
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I've had good luck using a butane lighter to eliminate the threads at the edge of cut hypalon fabric - just get it near the threads and they will disappear; no need to heat the fabric at all.
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Old 25 May 2007, 23:02   #30
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Thankyou, that is a great idea
Tony
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