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Old 28 June 2015, 12:28   #11
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Country: Canada
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After filling with air and soap-spotting/marking all leaks. Go to the sealer that works from the inside. And get the expensive type, following directions to the tee! Good Luck
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Old 29 June 2015, 19:32   #12
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Only problem I see with Nightfishers suggestion is that it's an 18' RIB. Most internal sealants I've seen involve rolling the boat around to cover the tube interior. Ain't gonna happen with an 18' RIB (unless you have a bunch of brawny friends willing to help, I suppose...)

jky
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Old 30 June 2015, 19:58   #13
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Paid seventy-five dollars (appx 30 pounds) for a winch. Looking at the pic of your boat, as I would as if mine, let's start by sealing from the inside-out.
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Old 28 July 2015, 23:21   #14
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Length: 5m +
Engine: 115hp yamaha o/b
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Blue Man, if you take a look at one of my albums, you'll see that I pulled the tubes off of my HBI and refurbished them with Tuff Coat.

Some of the red spots on the tubes are the threadbare 2nd ply material that jyasaki mentioned in his post. The Tuff Coat product is a product that you apply in two parts that "vulcanize" together. The 1st base coat does a great job of filling in the threadbare areas and any pinholes that you might have. This base coat stays tacky until the top coat is applied.

I started the project in the spring of 2011 and launched that fall. I will say this about the product, the gray has held up very well but the orange is a different story. The orange has developed spider lines in the top wear areas whereas the gray, which get the most abuse, still looks great.
So, I would definitely recommend the gray.

Along with everybody else, I would suggest replacing all the patches and rubber before putting on the base coat because it does an excellent job of sealing all of the seams.

Hope that helps.
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Old 29 July 2015, 00:38   #15
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Country: USA
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Boat name: Inspearation
Make: Nautica
Length: 5m +
Engine: Outboard
Join Date: Jun 2014
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Thanks for the advice everyone. Next step is to seal from the inside out. Rokar, how do I find that album you mentioned? I'm not able to search the album area. I'm interested to see those photos though.
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Old 29 July 2015, 10:11   #16
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If I'm not mistaken, click on rokar, click on public view, click on statistics and then click on albums.
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Old 29 July 2015, 15:16   #17
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Thanks. That worked. Wow those tubes were in bad shape. Nice work.
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Old 06 November 2015, 01:50   #18
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Make: Zodiac 733
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Stumbled across this thread; was wondering how the boat turned out. Glad to see someone is taking the time to finish my project.

Nautica's fabric just doesn't have the longevity as some of it's competitors. I fixed a dozen leaks on that boat before I sold it to you. It was wicking air on all the wear spots and had the typical rear cone problems. The cone issues come from improper inflation. It's 80 degrees outside and if you dump the boat in 60 degree water and don't top it off it's a bad deal. If the tubes are soft they flop around in the wash and fall apart.

I used liquid rubber on the wear spots and had it holding air pretty good.

Curious to see how it looks now; any pics?
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Old 16 November 2015, 12:40   #19
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Patrick, the boat turned out great but you did not have it even close to holding air as you claimed when I bought it from you. I have spent a lot of time and $ on those tubes and they still don't hold air.

I love the boat but it has cost me well over $10,000 to get it to where it is...(and only $1,400 of that went into the engine).

Also, I wish you hadn't used liquid rubber as it is very difficult to remove as part of the process of patching everything properly.
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Old 16 November 2015, 18:45   #20
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Sorry to hear the boat still doesn't hold air properly.

I tried to describe my boats as accurately as possible. I fixed several leaks and thought it was dialed in. Tubes in this condition are very difficult to repair. You patch one leak and another one pops up. They were worn and I clearly stated they needed more work and I recommended a complete application of tuff coat. That is why it was a giveaway price. The seat, console and galvanized trailer were worth about what you paid for it.

Liquid rubber is designed for application on exposed fabric. Hypalon glue will not stick to the fabric. If you wanted extra protection, you can apply an oversized patch to achieve the hypalon on hypalon contact.


I stand behind all my boats, they basically come with a full warranty to avoid situations like this. I wish you have called me, I would have helped you out. I sold a dinghy last week; the guy was just too big for it. I took it back and sold it to somebody else. I would have done that for you, but you would have had to actually contacted me.

I would have never chimed in on this thread had I thought I pulled a fast one.

Private message would have been cool.
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