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Old 28 May 2014, 16:00   #41
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It appears that the repair that IBC did, didn't take. It's leaking at the edge of the patch. I suspect they didn't coat the exposed fabric. Any thoughts, ideas, comments?

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Old 28 May 2014, 17:28   #42
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Is that the patch which is leaking or the seam adjacent to the patch?

Crossing the seam with a patch is a bugger.
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Old 28 May 2014, 17:34   #43
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I suspect the patch, not the seam because that's where the issue originated. It was fine for a week or two until I filled it with recommended pressure. My question is, what would you coat the exposed fabric with that would bond to the Hypalon adhesive? Would 3M 5200 Marine Adhesive appropriate? Would the adhesive used to bond Hypalon also adhere to the 5200? I suspect they didn't coat the exposed fabric which caused it not to adhere properly in that area. Will ask when I take it back in. Pain in the rear...
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Old 28 May 2014, 20:08   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F470 View Post
I suspect the patch, not the seam because that's where the issue originated. It was fine for a week or two until I filled it with recommended pressure. My question is, what would you coat the exposed fabric with that would bond to the Hypalon adhesive? Would 3M 5200 Marine Adhesive appropriate? Would the adhesive used to bond Hypalon also adhere to the 5200? I suspect they didn't coat the exposed fabric which caused it not to adhere properly in that area. Will ask when I take it back in. Pain in the rear...
Delaminate the patch and apply a bigger patch with hypalon adhesive. You want a minimum of 2" away from the leak or affected area. The patch ideally should be circular.

It looks like it is coming from the seam to me. Seam leaks are nearly impossible fix...the ledge of material creates a tunnel for air to escape. There are two ways to fix a seam leak:

1.) The official way. Use a VERY lightweight material, say 300 denier or similar hypalon, and burnish the crap out of it. Lay the patch uphill and burnish the lower edge before you place down the upper edge.

2.) The easy way...rough up the material, wipe with toluene, then brush on some McNett's Aquaseal. Afterwards, put a patch over the whole shebang.

CAUTION : Nothing removes McNett's Aquaseal. Not heat, not solvent...only mechanical abrasion will remove it.

DO NOT USE 3M 4200 / 5200 / other silicone type sealants. They don't work for air leaks...they do work okay for water leaks though.

You will want to use a 2 part adhesive such as the Weaver 2001 hypalon glue kit.
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Old 30 May 2014, 19:32   #45
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I'm quite confident its the patch. When looking closely it bubbles at the top edge of the surface of the patch. The patch is also already delaminating in one corner.
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Old 30 May 2014, 20:34   #46
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Take it back to IBC? Or maybe peel patch off, use some of this Inland Marine Liquid Rubber Inflatable Coating
then put new patch over it for mechanical strength?
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Old 30 May 2014, 20:38   #47
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I'm talking it back. The liquid rubber looks good. I'll suggest that. Thanks!
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Old 31 May 2014, 19:36   #48
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If you ever try the Aquaseal thing that Office talked about, I find it best to thin out the Aquaseal with the clear Cotol that comes in a can (not the "filled" crap that comes in a little jar in the blister pack.)

Using a 2:1 to 4:1 mix of Cotol to Aquaseal, you end up with a thin mix that penetrates fabrics and such better than straight Aquaseal. A bonus is it also cures in about 15 minutes, rather than the 24 hour cure of straight Aquaseal.

I do this a lot with drysuit leaks, as well as air leaks in BC bladders.

jky
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