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Old 01 August 2013, 21:09   #21
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Country: Canada
Boat name: WB465
Make: Zodiac
Length: 4m +
Engine: 2013 ETEC 30
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I just got an ETEC 30 (rope, tiller, long shaft) for my WB465, which is very similar to an F470 except that it is a classic hull and not a Futura hull (I've not got speed tubes under the buoyancy tubes).

My ETEC weighs in at around 150 lbs. It's plenty powerful for my boat, and yours would get even more out of it with a Futura hull.

As you go up on the hp, electric start and trim starts to become mandatory, as does bolting the engine to the transom. If you want to keep it simple and light, the ETEC 30 is a good way to go. I just clamp mine on and can carry it around with 2 adults easily.

Having said that, if you want lots of torque for heavy loads plus as much speed as possible, with a rigid floor, your boat would have no trouble handling an ETEC 60. We used to run an Evinrude heavy duty 55 hp motor on our old MKIIIGR for 2 decades: no problems with the transom at all.
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Old 01 August 2013, 21:10   #22
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Country: Canada
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BTW, my ETEC is quiet, starts first pull every time, idles with no smoke, and seems very good on gas so far. I love it. Based on my experience so far, plus the low maintenance schedule and simple auto-winterization, I'd get an ETEC every time.
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Old 01 August 2013, 21:22   #23
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Country: USA
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Make: Polaris
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Quote:
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Looks like I messed up on groupings too. Size too for some reason I swear inspector (I had to have HIN number verified) told me 2 inch letters. Oh well not to hard to peel them off.
3" high and with a space or dash between the state "OR", the digits and a space again before the suffix characters. And your registration stickers need to be displayed too.

Guidelines:
Titling & Registration Display of OR Number and Decals
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Old 01 August 2013, 22:20   #24
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Country: USA
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Yep I found it already. Can't trust anyone. Don't have registration stickers yet
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Old 01 August 2013, 22:33   #25
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Don't have registration stickers yet
Odd, up here those are provided when you register. The title in your name comes in the mail later.
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Old 01 August 2013, 23:01   #26
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Country: USA
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Make: Zodiac F470
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I didn't have a title to start with so had to get HIN number inspected by police after getting temporary registration, should get those in mail soon
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Old 02 August 2013, 00:15   #27
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Country: USA
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Boat name: Tilikum
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Engine: Suzuki DT-40
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I'm leaning towards less (30 or 40 versus 60) If I can find it. There would be a few occasions where I would be heavily loaded but as long as its moving I'll be happy. I'm not a speed demon. Also seems like a rope start saves some weight. So you think the FC-470 could handle 270lbs without reinforcement? Seems like a lot.

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I just got an ETEC 30 (rope, tiller, long shaft) for my WB465, which is very similar to an F470 except that it is a classic hull and not a Futura hull (I've not got speed tubes under the buoyancy tubes).

My ETEC weighs in at around 150 lbs. It's plenty powerful for my boat, and yours would get even more out of it with a Futura hull.

As you go up on the hp, electric start and trim starts to become mandatory, as does bolting the engine to the transom. If you want to keep it simple and light, the ETEC 30 is a good way to go. I just clamp mine on and can carry it around with 2 adults easily.

Having said that, if you want lots of torque for heavy loads plus as much speed as possible, with a rigid floor, your boat would have no trouble handling an ETEC 60. We used to run an Evinrude heavy duty 55 hp motor on our old MKIIIGR for 2 decades: no problems with the transom at all.
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Old 02 August 2013, 00:16   #28
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I'm already sold. I'm definitely getting one. A Dura Jet E-Tec if I can find one at a reasonable price.

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BTW, my ETEC is quiet, starts first pull every time, idles with no smoke, and seems very good on gas so far. I love it. Based on my experience so far, plus the low maintenance schedule and simple auto-winterization, I'd get an ETEC every time.
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Old 02 August 2013, 01:34   #29
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Country: Canada
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Yup. FC470 should handle that engine. Remember that the engine block for the ETEC 40-50-60 are the same, so weight will be very similar. In that case, if $ is not the issue, why not go for the 60hp?

As long as you are ok with bolting the engine to the transom, electric start and trim, and a heavy engine to unbolt for spring and fall cleaning etc. I assume you are trailoring it, right? I'd definitely make sure the transom is well supported and I'd use a transom saver at the least. These issues made the ETEC 30 the obvious choice for me.
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Old 02 August 2013, 01:38   #30
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F470 with multifuel ETEC30


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Old 02 August 2013, 16:02   #31
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Country: USA
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Biggest problem with getting smaller hp motor is that occasionally you might to be thinking I could have got bigger one.

I bolted my motor down at bottom for peace of mind. Also thinking that just in case some opportunist might have smaller chance walking away with my shiny new outboard. With just top clamps all you need to do is ease them up and walk away. With bolts you need couple wrenches and few minutes. Minor deterrent. Regardless if I move motor up couple inches as I suspect I need, It will have to be bolted down with all 4 bolts since clamps won't do any good.

F470, I'm out all next week otherwise I'll gladly give you a demo with 25 horse Zuk. Only difference with 25-30 outboards is at WOT (30 has about 5-10% higher WOT RMPs). Mid range behavior is identical. Same goes for 40-50-60 (with same block). Higher hp motors can burn more fuel at top RPMs, use more energy, hence higher HP. Mid range power should be exactly the same.

Electrical start doesn't add that much weight aside of battery. Certainly adds convenience. It's nice to just push the button. Also my wife, or even kido can start it easily and run the boat. Theoretically if you get hurt (break and arm or twist your ankle), you can still easily start engine and ride home. Option of using electrical trolling motor sometimes could be handy. Alternator output can be added to manual start but kinda defies the purpose then I think.
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Old 02 August 2013, 16:11   #32
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Country: USA
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Yup. FC470 should handle that engine. Remember that the engine block for the ETEC 40-50-60 are the same, so weight will be very similar. In that case, if $ is not the issue, why not go for the 60hp?
Not going to unbolt and remove ~240 lbs without an engine hoist. If you don't have a garage rafter you can use with a block and tackle, Harbor Freight has budget engine hoists, wait until they go on sale or use one of their frequent -20% coupons.

At least with my old SIB I wanted to remove the engine so I could take the floor boards out as least once a year to clean out sand and grit that was abrading the fabric.
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Old 02 August 2013, 16:19   #33
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Hell, even my 170lb is two man operation.
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Old 02 August 2013, 16:26   #34
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Country: USA
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Hell, even my 170lb is two man operation.
Except for thieves, they seem to carry away with more than you'd think. If the engine is bolted on, a locking nut is a good idea. If clamped on, you should definitely use one of the clamp locks. My 60hp is ~230lbs and I still have a locking bolt. Not 100% piece of mind, but more.
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Old 02 August 2013, 16:30   #35
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Sitting on trailer it's just about right height for thieves to snatch it onto shoulder and walk. getting it off the ground up is different story. Not the most convenient object to hold on to.
Capnt what's that security/locking bolt?
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Old 02 August 2013, 16:42   #36
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Country: USA
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Mine is older and I suspect a different brand, but one of these goes on an ouboard bolt and in theory prevents unbolting the outboard.

WEST MARINE High Security Bolt Lock at West Marine

UK thieves seem to just chain saw the transom, but I haven't heard of such a thing over here. I suspect our theives are more oppotunists and less of an organized gang.
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Old 02 August 2013, 16:49   #37
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Country: USA
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Awesome, thanks! Been thinking something like that should exist.
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Old 02 August 2013, 20:27   #38
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If you get electric start etc and need a battery, you should find a way of securing the battery to the floor so it isn't bouncing around.
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Old 02 August 2013, 20:38   #39
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Box came with some clamps I screwed down to the floor. Talked to someone at IBC (inflatable boat center) they were pretty certain that I need to raise my engine so anti-cavitation plate is 1/2-1" below transom.
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Old 02 August 2013, 21:04   #40
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Posts: 1,152
Not sure what size battery/box you got. But a U1 size, depsite being a fair bit smaller than what Yam recommended for my F25 - started it up fine, even in winter. I recommend spending the extra to get a Gel or AGM battery. When (not if) you swamp the boat, these will survive the flood.
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