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Old 26 June 2014, 18:00   #31
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another suggestion would be to use same bolt pattern as you motor to mount raiser. Imagine it mounted as high as possible. Then you always loose raiser if need to and use those holes to attach motor still possibly considerably higher than simply dropped on transom. I would certainly use 4 bolts for riser.
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Old 26 June 2014, 19:00   #32
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Yep. I plan to use the same bolt pattern as the engine mount and two additional ones. Not sure I understand what you meant past that first sentence...
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Old 26 June 2014, 19:19   #33
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Yep. I plan to use the same bolt pattern as the engine mount and two additional ones. Not sure I understand what you meant past that first sentence...
What I mean is you can drill pattern corresponding to lowest position of motor. Place motor squarely on transom and drill using bolt holes as guides.

Alternatively you can raise motor with wood block or something and again use bolt holes as guides for drilling. But then I would keep distance from top holes to top of transom not much less than thickness of transom. i.e 40 mm.
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Old 27 June 2014, 15:50   #34
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I updated the design. Made it 0.25" aluminum with 2" x 4" rectangular extrusion inside. I also added the Motor clamp to get an idea of layout and position. 4 additional holes to secure the riser for a total of 6. This raises the motor 4.25" so that the cav plate sits 0.5" below keel.
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Old 27 June 2014, 18:13   #35
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I updated the design. Made it 0.25" aluminum with 2" x 4" rectangular extrusion inside. I also added the Motor clamp to get an idea of layout and position. 4 additional holes to secure the riser for a total of 6. This raises the motor 4.25" so that the cav plate sits 0.5" below keel.
Do you clamps fit 2.5"? Are you sure you need to got that high? Are you trying to match distance from bracket to A/V plate (22.75") or is it actual measurement of ? When you trim out your motor AV plate may go up by an inch or so relative to keel at neutral trim.
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Old 27 June 2014, 18:23   #36
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The clamps should fit as the opening is closer to 2.75" but I will of course double check to make sure. I'm not sure if I have the height dimensions correct. As currently measured the cav plate is 4.75" below the keel. From the top of the transom to the top edge of the riser plate its 4.25". That's how I got here. Are my calculations off? I'm new to all this so I am a bit slow to follow. What do you mean 'trim out the motor AV plate'? Which one is the AV plate?
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Old 27 June 2014, 18:33   #37
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The clamps should fit as the opening is closer to 2.75" but I will of course double check to make sure. I'm not sure if I have the height dimensions correct. As currently measured the cav plate is 4.75" below the keel. From the top of the transom to the top edge of the riser plate its 4.25". That's how I got here. Are my calculations off? I'm new to all this so I am a bit slow to follow. What do you mean 'trim out the motor AV plate'? Which one is the AV plate?

ah. AV plate is one above prop. Comma might help.
When you trim out your motor, AV plate may go up by an inch or so relative to keel at neutral trim.
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Old 27 June 2014, 18:37   #38
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neutral trim as when boat is on a plane, AV plate should be near horizontal.
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Old 27 June 2014, 19:26   #39
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So you're saying that at neutral trim (meaning boat is on a plane?) the AV (Anti Cavitation) Plate may rise an inch? So in that even I should probably reduce the overall height of the riser plate by 1"?
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Old 27 June 2014, 21:42   #40
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Yes but you have to measure it mounted to be 100% sure
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