Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 05 June 2016, 14:43   #1
Country: USA
Town: Huntington Beach
Make: Zodiak
Length: under 3m
Engine: Outboard
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 1
2002 YL340DL Steering wheel removal

Hello RIBers, I recently purchase a 2002 Zodiak YL340DL with a rubber steering wheel that looks like it has seen better days. I would like to upgrade to a stainless wheel but I've encountered a plate under the center housing that I can't tell if it is just for decoration or it is part of the wheel holding it in place. In the center are 6 studs and in the center is the normal center nut. I removed the center nut and the wheel wont budge. Does the plate with the studs need to be removed? it looks like they are hex keyed studs but they are not. I don't want to destroy the wheel if I don't have to and I'm afraid if I start wrestling with the wheel that I will crack the fiber glass center console.

Any recommendations on removing the wheel? Please see attachment.

Thanks in advance.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	20160605_101204_resized.jpg
Views:	65
Size:	124.5 KB
ID:	113462  

OCCruiser is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05 June 2016, 15:25   #2
cgoing's Avatar
Country: USA
Town: Connecticut
Make: Zodiac
Length: 6m +
Engine: Undecided
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 675
You can start with lots of penetrating oil around the center. The plate you see is part of the wheel and should come off as one piece with the rest of the wheel.

Chris Going
cgoing is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05 June 2016, 15:54   #3
Country: USA
Town: S. Carolina
Boat name: D560
Make: Avon
Length: 5m +
Engine: 2016 Merc 115hp CT
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 1,251
Use a gear puller, PB blaster, and heat. Even a heatgun can provide enough heat. The jaws will damage the black bezel behind it, but the wheel will come off. Mine was from 1999. It had so much energy stored, when the corrosion broke, my old steering wheel went flying about 10 ft.

Wear safety glasses.
Gluing geek since 2007
Opinions and intepretations expressed are solely my own and do not express the views or opinions of my employer
office888 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05 June 2016, 21:40   #4
Country: USA
Town: Oakland CA
Length: 3m +
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 6,653
I had pulled my wheel, and used some anti-seize to keep corrosion from starting. Decided to replace the wheel about 2 months later, and it wouldn't budge. Tried all the suggestions above, with the addition of spray freeze to the arsenal. Ended up putting a bearing puller on it, cranking near the point of destroying the puller, and letting it sit. Sitting outside a couple of days later, I heard a loud bang, and went to find the wheel and puller on the deck of the boat.

Lessons learned: Don't use anti-seize (I did use grease this time), and tighten the nut just enough to get wobble out of the hub/shaft join.

jyasaki is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06 June 2016, 12:17   #5
Country: UK - England
Town: Hamble
Length: 9m +
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 2,317
Wind the nut off till it's held by just a couple of threads, then, whilst sitting on the console facing aft, put as much pressure on the wheel pushing with your thighs, and whack the steering shaft with the biggest hammer you can find, and a centre punch.

Works every time for me......
It is better to remain silent and be thought a fool, than to speak and remove all doubt!
Dirk Diggler is offline   Reply With Quote

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 13:58.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.