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Old 22 March 2014, 16:30   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShinyShoe View Post
I *think* putting a switch in the engine feed is bad. Certainly some car engines don't like it if the battery is suddenly switched off - it dumps a load of power back into the engine electrics and you could need to buy a new ECU! Bad design in my opinion!

So I'd say connect engine direct to battery.

Bet ya someone is along in 5 to say "NO thats a fire hazard" or somet
in motorsport its common practice to have the kill switch on the negative, as ignition systems can continue running on the alternator if the positive side is cut which then damages the ignition system.
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Old 22 March 2014, 17:04   #12
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you are correct it is damaging to shut off power to engine suddenly on our race cars the master batt switch has a resister wired in to absorb the spike to earth
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Old 22 March 2014, 18:31   #13
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I found that looking at example wiring diagrams from others really helped when replacing the wiring on our RIB. I have attached the one I drew up which I hope is helpful. Fairly basic set up incorporating isolator switch, carling switch panel, fuse box and bus bar. The engine is wired through the isolator switch primarily to ensure everything is actually off when the boat is left and the switch is a high quality blue sea systems one so not too worried about power being cut.
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Old 22 March 2014, 21:52   #14
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CUSAC's wiring diagramme is a good one. Use it and add/remove components as necessary.
I'd use a Blue Sea 5025 fuse box (it includes a negative busbar so makes it a shedload easier).

Please please PLEASE avoid using chock blocks. They have no place on a boat,particularly not something as bouncy as an SR4 and nobody who'd use them will ever get near my wiring. They fail. It's what they do.
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Old 23 March 2014, 02:54   #15
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Henry...

Some answers for you.

1 work out how many devices you have to power and get a fuse panel that meets the requirement with a couple of extra slots for future additions.

2 Run all the devices off individual fuses. Remember as well as the device failing the fuses are there to protect against the cabling between the fuse box and the device chaffing and shorting (much more likely to happen than the device shorting IMO).

3 The engine negative runs straight to the battey. The engine positive should run through an isolator switch so you can turn off power to the engine. What if the battery cables short out in the engine ? You need to be able to isolate the engine. Just don't switch it off if the engine is running (Simples !)

4 All your device negatives connect into a busbar then to the battery.

5 There is one exception to the above. The VHF should connect directly to the battery and have its own in line fuse. Reason being is if your wiring fails you can still call for help...!

6 I am 20 mins away and in the middle of wiring up Taurus. Got a pair of battery cables for you if you need some (no charge) and a few other other odds and sods...
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Old 23 March 2014, 04:49   #16
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Hi guys

Just finished to processing all that

I understand most of the diagram now. So would be relatively confident in wiring it up now. But what I am not sure of is what the block are that intercept all the appliances leading to the fuse box from the A-Frame (those 5 blocks). I Know it's something to do with the readers coming from the outboard e.g. trim gauge. But I don't quite understand it!
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Old 23 March 2014, 04:51   #17
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Henry...

Some answers for you.

1 work out how many devices you have to power and get a fuse panel that meets the requirement with a couple of extra slots for future additions.

2 Run all the devices off individual fuses. Remember as well as the device failing the fuses are there to protect against the cabling between the fuse box and the device chaffing and shorting (much more likely to happen than the device shorting IMO).

3 The engine negative runs straight to the battey. The engine positive should run through an isolator switch so you can turn off power to the engine. What if the battery cables short out in the engine ? You need to be able to isolate the engine. Just don't switch it off if the engine is running (Simples !)

4 All your device negatives connect into a busbar then to the battery.

5 There is one exception to the above. The VHF should connect directly to the battery and have its own in line fuse. Reason being is if your wiring fails you can still call for help...!

6 I am 20 mins away and in the middle of wiring up Taurus. Got a pair of battery cables for you if you need some (no charge) and a few other other odds and sods...
Hi Chris, thanks that's really nice and clear and made me understand it better

If it doesn't waste your time too much then by all means pop down that would be really useful!

Henry
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Old 23 March 2014, 19:11   #18
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Originally Posted by henryfreston View Post
Hi guys

Just finished to processing all that

I understand most of the diagram now. So would be relatively confident in wiring it up now. But what I am not sure of is what the block are that intercept all the appliances leading to the fuse box from the A-Frame (those 5 blocks). I Know it's something to do with the readers coming from the outboard e.g. trim gauge. But I don't quite understand it!
The 5 blocks between the fuse box and the a frame parts are the switches. It is slightly more complicated as the switches light up when on and can be backlit off the ignition (thats why they link to the rev counter). If you just have a simple switch panel then you can ignore much of whats happening with those switches and it is much simpler.
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Old 24 March 2014, 03:51   #19
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Originally Posted by CUSAC View Post
The 5 blocks between the fuse box and the a frame parts are the switches. It is slightly more complicated as the switches light up when on and can be backlit off the ignition (thats why they link to the rev counter). If you just have a simple switch panel then you can ignore much of whats happening with those switches and it is much simpler.
Ok thanks, I am going to order;

1x busbar
1x switch panel
1x master switch


comes to around 50 which isn't too bad- from mailspeedmarine.
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Old 24 March 2014, 07:46   #20
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Is that a waterproof switch panel Henry?
The non sealed ones are generally a bit cheaper.
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