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Old 12 June 2011, 10:14   #11
Paul Cannell's Avatar
Country: UK - England
Town: Kings Lynn
Boat name: Blow 'N' Away
Length: 4m +
MMSI: 235085136
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 469
Originally Posted by martini View Post
Paul sounds like you've pretty much got it but have a read of this for a bit of an overview:

Stick to micro connectors for the whole thing, you don't need the larger ones. Have you got a battery switch? If you've got some way of isolating power to your electronics then there's no need to add switches, just need to fuse everything, either a fuse board of some type or separate inline fuses, one each in the N2k power cable, AIS power supply cable and plotter supply cable.

Give me a ring anytime if you're stuck
Thanks, only have the Yamaha remote immobiliser & lanyard, I think I'll get a 'waterproof' 2 or 3 way fused switch panel (any recommendations) as it difficult to get to the kill switch wiring, as I understand it the N2K pulls a small amount of power which could flatten the battery over time.

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Old 12 June 2011, 17:53   #12
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gotchiguy's Avatar
Country: UK - England
Town: Bushey & La Bretagne
Boat name: Into the Red
Make: Osprey Vipermax
Length: 7m +
Engine: Evinrude E-tec 250HO
MMSI: 235 076 114
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 1,936
Originally Posted by Channel Ribs View Post
*Makes a note to ensure an ample supply of fuses for the re-wire job*

Not far off........

Like Bogmonster there are quite a number of things in the "what you would do different next time" section subdivided into the "argue more with Roy" category
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