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Old 19 January 2009, 16:34   #21
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then have to rush off to buy another RIB (probably a Searider)


hmmm, i have had this one a long time,, better start looking for another project,
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Old 19 January 2009, 16:55   #22
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I was running auto batteries in my boat. Certainly they are the least expensive option in the short term. But I got tired of my batteries failing and I figured I would go deep cycle since I run lights and a fish finder with the engine off. Auto batteries will not last long at all if you discharge them down to a low charge more than a couple of times and will sulfate if left discharged for long. I have a collection of dead auto batteries. I bought a regular marine deep cycle battery and it didn't last long either. Even the marine deep cycle battery wasn't built to take the vibrations and shocks my battery undergoes. So I looked at gel batteries and dual purpose AGM (absorbed glass matt batteries). Both are sealed units, are designed to install and operate at all sorts of angles (except upside down), can take hundreds of deep discharge cycles and are vibration resistant. I went with an AGM battery because it charges like a regular battery. Gel batteries take a slower charge. The down side? $229 US They are also heavy. Mine is 53 lbs. Waay more than anyone probably wants to know... but the AGM holds a charge better between uses and mine is on it's third year of abuse. Looks like the cost will average out for me. You UK types always seem to be blasting around in nasty weather testing your equipment big time, it might be worthwhile to check out an AGM.
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Old 20 January 2009, 14:47   #23
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Picked up a 110 ah today for £69 Cheers lads!
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Old 20 January 2009, 16:29   #24
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Picked up a 110 ah today for £69 Cheers lads!
Where from??
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Old 20 January 2009, 17:00   #25
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Picked up a 110 ah today for £69 Cheers lads!
thats not a bad price, i think i paid £59inc vat for mine with a 2 year warranty, but i do have an account there.
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Old 20 January 2009, 17:22   #26
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Where from??
Came buy it by chance in a local hardware shop. He mainly sells nuts bolts etc and is one of those shops where you have to wedge yourself in and work out what part of the shop could be the counter.
I'd sent my wife in to ask for some valve gaps for my engine and a box of sparks for my grinder to get her back for sending me in tesco for a tin of chicken legs (It was a dull day) and she spotted them.
It's a leisure marine battery which from what I read means naff all by a company called wetline if that means anything.

Just need a battery box to fit now.
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Old 20 January 2009, 17:32   #27
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thats cheap for a marine battery, theyre usualy half way between a deep cycle and an SLA ideal for the job.
Hasnt been hanging around too long i hope?
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Old 20 January 2009, 18:17   #28
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thats cheap for a marine battery, theyre usualy half way between a deep cycle and an SLA ideal for the job.
Hasnt been hanging around too long i hope?
I got him to put a reader on it and it showed full whack and he had a stack of about 8 of them. Said he got them in for the local fishing guys.
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Old 24 January 2009, 08:40   #29
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Need to pick your brains again lads.

This battery fills the double jockey seat. Not sure if I can squeeze a battery box in as well. Any ideas of an alternative. Obviously want to secure the battery to the deck and something to catch any spilt acid. Got a hard one here (careful!)
Needs a box that fits it snugly really so a custom one maybe the only option.
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Old 24 January 2009, 09:55   #30
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Secure Battery

Hi
I secure my battery in my console with a cam strap (the type used to secure scuba tanks) which is easily released and fitted. To prevent sliding I formed a close fitting .frame around the base with aluminium angle. This has served me well for the past 10 years or more without incident.

Cheers

Paul
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Old 24 January 2009, 13:45   #31
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Need to pick your brains again lads. This battery fills the double jockey seat. Not sure if I can squeeze a battery box in as well. Any ideas of an alternative. Obviously want to secure the battery to the deck and something to catch any spilt acid. Got a hard one here (careful!) Needs a box that fits it snugly really so a custom one maybe the only option.
John the easy way is to just stick a plastic box in. However after trawling though probably the longest fred on Ribnet I eventually found the photos of Andy Hightowers installation which you might want to copy. However the frames are designed to go under and over the top then bolt together to hold the battery in place, just that Andy used one frame for a twin battery set up. The design as Dirk Diggler points out came from him and Jon Fuller (late of this parish) and seems to work well for offshore powerboats.

Some thoughts, have you got the fuel tanks and battery / battery master switch in the same location? is there a risk of fumes and sparks meeting and having a party. How do the battery leads and fuel lines get to the engine? are they along side each other, snaked nicely together? would you buy a car with the battery leads raped around the fuel line? something to think about anyway.

http://rib.net/forum/showthread.php?...+clamp&page=13
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Old 24 January 2009, 16:28   #32
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I have the battery under my console at the stern end.
You know m10 bolts that hold the console down, well on mine there were alloy stretcher plates across them. I replaced these with stainless strips 2"x1/16 thick and welded a 5mm dia stainless bar onto each one horizontally with a gap under to form a place to hook a strap. I then used a small stainless ratchet strap, ditched the hook end and ran a continuous loop through the eyes over the battery and both ends through the ratchet,
clickety click and its not going anywhere!
I dont know if a battery tray is worth worrying about, i find theres plenty of seawater and rainwater slopping around in the console to dilute any acid
havent smelled any chlorine yet
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Old 24 January 2009, 16:47   #33
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John the easy way is to just stick a plastic box in. However after trawling though probably the longest fred on Ribnet I eventually found the photos of Andy Hightowers installation which you might want to copy. However the frames are designed to go under and over the top then bolt together to hold the battery in place, just that Andy used one frame for a twin battery set up. The design as Dirk Diggler points out came from him and Jon Fuller (late of this parish) and seems to work well for offshore powerboats.

Some thoughts, have you got the fuel tanks and battery / battery master switch in the same location? is there a risk of fumes and sparks meeting and having a party. How do the battery leads and fuel lines get to the engine? are they along side each other, snaked nicely together? would you buy a car with the battery leads raped around the fuel line? something to think about anyway.

http://rib.net/forum/showthread.php?...+clamp&page=13
hehe Parish
I'll have a good read of that thread tonight, cheers.
The battery is on it's own in a double jockey seat. Only other permanent thing in there is an isolator switch. The fuel tanks are underneath the console. May as well show you a photo David M had on here back in 2002 of it. As the whole RIB is in bits at the moment. In the near future I'm changing to a single jockey console infront of the double so will use your advice regarding fuel and batteries

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Old 24 January 2009, 16:49   #34
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I have the battery under my console at the stern end.
You know m10 bolts that hold the console down, well on mine there were alloy stretcher plates across them. I replaced these with stainless strips 2"x1/16 thick and welded a 5mm dia stainless bar onto each one horizontally with a gap under to form a place to hook a strap. I then used a small stainless ratchet strap, ditched the hook end and ran a continuous loop through the eyes over the battery and both ends through the ratchet,
clickety click and its not going anywhere!
I dont know if a battery tray is worth worrying about, i find theres plenty of seawater and rainwater slopping around in the console to dilute any acid
havent smelled any chlorine yet
I was thinking kind of on the same lines. Got some galvanized ducting that I had left over from when the kitchen was being rewired. Thinking of screwing that to the deck and then running straps through it to form a cross to tie it down. Was just the acid spill I'm worried about.
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Old 24 January 2009, 19:14   #35
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If its Daves old boat it will have been done properly, he learnt everything from Rogue Wave

Pete
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Old 24 January 2009, 19:24   #36
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.......... he learnt everything from Rogue Wave

Pete
ohhh Sh#t

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Old 25 January 2009, 16:15   #37
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We4 had a conversation last night and I was pleased to say 'I told you so@ on more than one occasion. Truth is most people are better at doing up boats than me and whingeing Dave is certainly one of them.
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Old 25 January 2009, 19:16   #38
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We4 had a conversation last night and I was pleased to say 'I told you so@ on more than one occasion. Truth is most people are better at doing up boats than me and whingeing Dave is certainly one of them.
By what you've told me mate, you know your stuff
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Old 26 January 2009, 05:03   #39
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As you may have picked up from my typo's my fingers aint small and don't do fiddly very well!

I've got to do my 4.7 and I've been planning where to do it for a while. Now if I only new somebody with a new garage?
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Old 26 January 2009, 07:32   #40
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The design as Dirk Diggler points out came from him and Jon Fuller (late of this parish) and seems to work well for offshore powerboats.
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