Where/How to fit a battery isolator switch?

Robin Clark · 14 August 2013, 08:56

Being fed up with getting a flat battery due to lights/VHF etc left on, I have purchased a battery isolator switch - Hella 'Key' type...
I'm looking to fit it as near to the battery as possible and in the positive cable as I believe it would aid anti-corrosion if the positive is disconnected?
However, if I fit it through the rear seat console (where the battery is situated), the key is exposed and could easily be snapped off by passengers...
Is it OK to fit it through the battery box inside the seat console?
OR how could i fit it through the seat console? I know I could put it in a corner, but should it be externally fitted or internally with just the barrel exposed?

Thanks for your help (in advance)

Pikey Dave · 14 August 2013, 09:10

Without seeing your setup, I'd put it inside something, e.g. console/seatbase etc. You need to protect it from corrosion & exposure to salt water or you will end up with more problems than you started with. Never underestimate the power of saltwater to eat all things electrical, especially when it's seasoned with a nice 12v dc supply.

Robin Clark · 14 August 2013, 09:21

Pikey Dave · 14 August 2013, 09:51

no piccie

colcreate · 14 August 2013, 10:15

I recessed my twin battery change over switch by making a box and sticking it on the inside with a hatch on the outside.
http://www.rib.net/forum/f16/searide...tml#post525968

I expect you will find a suitable enclosure/box that you can Sikaflex/screw into your seat unit. 100mm hatches are cheap and available in Black or White. Would leave it nice and smooth on the outside and protect the switch from the elements.

Robin Clark · 15 August 2013, 11:12

This is the switch....

I'm thinking of mounting it inside the rear seat but drilling an access hole in the top corner for the key... the protrusion for the key fitting would just sit proud of the seat side and by being in the corner should protect it from knocks and scrapes...

doggypaddle · 15 August 2013, 11:48

Not the best switches.
the ones with a non removable knob on are far better quality in my experience.(lucas pattern)
like this one Ebay 111036585284

gerry11m · 15 August 2013, 15:02

Hi, I'm just in the process of ditching the same key switch you have and replacing it with a proper Blueseas marine switch. The Bluesea switch is more corrosion resistant and is certified petrol vapour safe so you won't blow up the boat - plus changing to house/engine dual battery setup with AVR.

Regards

two stroke mick · 15 August 2013, 15:16

You clould blow the ECU in the outboard if it turned off by mistake while using the engine (ETEC)

boristhebold · 15 August 2013, 17:08

I had a battery switch that you had to use a key to unlock before you could turn it, the lock became solid with salt corrosion so no longer locked it, then after 6 months the switch itslef became rather twitchy due to corrosion. The lesson learnt was dont skimp on quality, salt will over time destroy everything. I replaced with a better quality isolator swith from blue sea marine, no problems since.

gotchiguy · 17 August 2013, 08:46

Quote:

Originally Posted by two stroke mick

You clould blow the ECU in the outboard if it turned off by mistake while using the engine (ETEC)

Yes unfortunately there is a possibility, there have been a couple of reports of EMMs frying due to dodgy battery. Fortunately ETECs are the only modern outboard not to need a battery to run - you can pull start even the 90deg V6s!

ShinyShoe · 17 August 2013, 08:58

only an ETEC owner would find a possitive spin on a design flaw which means if the battery lead comes off while the motor is on you have the best part of a grands repair work to repair your motor and will be in limp home mode till its fixed...

...but hey - at least if the battery if dead when the engine is off you'll be able to start it!

Even if you change to the marine switch, most people but them inside the seat / console to keep them drier. Not something you should need to or want to touch when underway. However, I do wonder how often you'll forget to turn it off instead of the VHF!

spartacus · 17 August 2013, 09:11

Quote:

Originally Posted by gerry11m

The Bluesea switch is more corrosion resistant and is certified petrol vapour safe so you won't blow up the boat - plus changing to house/engine dual battery setup with AVR.

Don't know about dual battery set-ups but Blue Sea products are the dog's danglies!

I fitted mine on the console, as otherwise I'd be guaranteed to forget to switch it off. Contrary to popular Ribnet opinion its been 100% watertight (IP66 rated) in its current location.

Another example.
http://www.rib.net/forum/attachment....7&d=1343506710

ShinyShoe · 17 August 2013, 11:44

I don't consider IP66 as waterproof! I expect IPx7 as a minimum and would prefer IPx8 if the option existed.

I'm sure longevity of the blue sea one will be afected by its exact possition and if its being washed off with fresh water regularly.

Pikey Dave · 18 August 2013, 14:19

Quote:

Originally Posted by gotchiguy

Yes unfortunately there is a possibility, there have been a couple of reports of EMMs frying due to dodgy battery. Fortunately ETECs are the only modern outboard not to need a battery to run - you can pull start even the 90deg V6s!

Sigh! :Rolleyes: As I keep trying to tell you, but you keep jumping in young fella, if the EMM is nuked you can't pull start it, not even the mighty Etec:nono: If the EMM dies, it's dead, deceased, no more, gone to meet its maker, shuffled off the mortal coil, extinct, kaput!!! & how do I know this? Don't ask:sad: