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Old 28 October 2007, 07:02   #41
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I've used these, a copy of a Hella light but much cheaper from C Quip!
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Old 28 October 2007, 07:36   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hightower View Post
This one is a more focused/spotlight beam.

http://www.maplin.co.uk/module.aspx?...&doy=28m10#PDF

and this one is a more of a flood light type beam

http://www.maplin.co.uk/module.aspx?...doy=28m10#spec

If yu can make more sense of the specs than me then you should be able to understand what voltage they are.

The reverse voltage maximum is 5v.

I've wired up two of these in series over a 9v battery and there's no visible change to the intesity of the light, that at least shows that they'll run at 4.5v's a piece. They are much cooler than they were too.

Ok, here goes (drawing on memory from A-level electronics a long time ago...)

All LEDs perform as diodes-ie they allow voltage across once the voltage supplied passes a certain level in the correct direction. There's then a breakdown voltage (around 9-12 volts) where the diode will fail. The Reverse voltage is the point where if current flow is reversed then the diode will allow current flow in that direction(but for what you want an LED for this is irrelevant).

Pretty much all LEDs will be operating quite happily at 3-4.5v.

What is usually sold as 12v,24v etc LEDs are actually a normal LED in a case with a resistor built in. The case specs determine the IP rating-ie how waterproof the case is when mounted properly to a panel.

Don't run LEDs in series-get the correct resistor and run them in parallel.

Any help?

<edit> The 2nd link you've given is for oval LEDs. It won't be easy to drill an oval hole
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Old 28 October 2007, 07:51   #43
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I just had a look at the M&P catalogue-these any use? They are completely sealed units and they'll survive complete immersion.

http://www.mandp.co.uk/productInfo.aspx?catRef=541854
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Old 28 October 2007, 08:52   #44
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The oval ones aren't going to be a problem, amazing stuff is silkaflex, fills all those gaps and acts like an adhesive

16 is quite a bit of money by the time you've fitted two to the transom boxes and a couple in the console, they also are a little too exposed in the transom and are bound to be broken at some stage. Whilst the individual ones can be silkaflexed in and shouldn't protrude much, if at all.
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Old 28 October 2007, 09:19   #45
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16 is quite a bit of money by the time you've fitted two to the transom boxes and a couple in the console, they also are a little too exposed in the transom and are bound to be broken at some stage. Whilst the individual ones can be silkaflexed in and shouldn't protrude much, if at all.
Still worth considering though. I've used single ones building bike dashboards before and the problem is never with the LED itself but the solder joints fall apart with corrosion quite fast even when sealed-or they fatigue and snap with movement. LED legs snap really easily with vibration. It's why the sealed units will win every time with me.
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Old 28 October 2007, 09:31   #46
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Still worth considering though. I've used single ones building bike dashboards before and the problem is never with the LED itself but the solder joints fall apart with corrosion quite fast even when sealed-or they fatigue and snap with movement. LED legs snap really easily with vibration. It's why the sealed units will win every time with me.
could you not pre wire and seal the leds before putting them in the RIB?
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Old 28 October 2007, 09:44   #47
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could you not pre wire and seal the leds before putting them in the RIB?
Depends how you do it-what you need is flex in the wires exiting the setup but for no movement in the internal components at all-even if it gets an impact.You can't have any solder protruding from the sealed area at all either or you'll get tin migration and the joint will go 'dry'-or the joint will fatigue with vibration.
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Old 28 October 2007, 10:54   #48
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Depends how you do it-what you need is flex in the wires exiting the setup but for no movement in the internal components at all-even if it gets an impact.You can't have any solder protruding from the sealed area at all either or you'll get tin migration and the joint will go 'dry'-or the joint will fatigue with vibration.
I recon it would be another job for fibreglass resin! To encapsulate the area and keep it waterproof, you would also make a nice platform to mount the assembly in the boat.
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Old 28 October 2007, 20:11   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hightower View Post
This one is a more focused/spotlight beam.

http://www.maplin.co.uk/module.aspx?...&doy=28m10#PDF

and this one is a more of a flood light type beam

http://www.maplin.co.uk/module.aspx?...doy=28m10#spec
Andy, from the Maplin specs you need about 680R resistors if you run the leds continuously. Blue, Grey, Brown. The fourth band colour is tolerance and doesn't matter.

If you over run them you will shorten their life and there's little gain anyway.

High intensity leds can get a bit warm.
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Old 28 October 2007, 22:04   #50
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Andy, from the Maplin specs you need about 680R resistors if you run the leds continuously. Blue, Grey, Brown. The fourth band colour is tolerance and doesn't matter.

If you over run them you will shorten their life and there's little gain anyway.

High intensity leds can get a bit warm.
Thats very kind of you Jeff, saved me researching the formular for changing the resirtance and altering the voltage
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