Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
 
Old 04 January 2008, 04:38   #11
Member
 
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Aberdeenshire
Boat name: Kikican
Make: Vipermax 7
Length: 7m +
Engine: F250 / FT9.9 Aux
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 250
LED Lights

I have a full set waiting to go on the new trailer once I have lowered the rollers a bit. Dont see why they would not be 100% waterproof - the LED array sits in the lens and the whole lot is sealed in with several millimetres of epoxy with only the wire tails showing. I intend to solder the joints to the main cable, shrink wrap them and seal them in short lengths of plastic tube filled with epoxy.

Main problem is making up decent protection for the lights so I dont hit them with the boat when recovering.

Not cheap but if it means I dont have to keep taking that manky board into the pickup each time I launch then it will be worth it. I have got the tieing down so quick that not having to connect the board and run the cable takes longer than tieing down.

Richard
__________________

__________________
Richard Selman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04 January 2008, 04:59   #12
Member
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Gloucestershire
Boat name: Osprey
Make: Osprey Vipermax
Length: 5m +
Engine: E-tec 300 G2
MMSI: TBC
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 4,013
I like the idea of this however what about the number plate, without the trailer board where will you put this Richard?
__________________

__________________
Chris is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04 January 2008, 06:18   #13
Member
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Chesterfield
Boat name: Sea Quell
Make: Picton Cobra
Length: 5m +
Engine: Mercury 150 4 Stroke
MMSI: 235038298
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 859
Chris
Something like this ...... I find it so much better (and quicker) not having to remove and store a lighting board ; which someone always manages to run over whilst you are out at sea !
A nice bit of profile cut stainless would have beed nice for the mounting plates but I found some suspension unit mounting plates from Towsure and a bit of 1" box section to hand.
Jeff
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Light assy 1a.jpg
Views:	205
Size:	71.8 KB
ID:	32111   Click image for larger version

Name:	Mount Brkt1.jpg
Views:	195
Size:	70.8 KB
ID:	32112   Click image for larger version

Name:	Light jctn box 1.jpg
Views:	191
Size:	91.4 KB
ID:	32113  
__________________
Jeff is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04 January 2008, 11:48   #14
Member
 
Country: USA
Town: Oakland CA
Length: 3m +
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 6,653
Quote:
Originally Posted by Richard Selman View Post
Dont see why they would not be 100% waterproof - the LED array sits in the lens and the whole lot is sealed in with several millimetres of epoxy with only the wire tails showing.
That confused me as well. In truth, for that type of LED light, it was not necessarily water intrusion that killed them (as far as I can tell), rather just the electronics going bad.

I have had 3 or 4 types of LED lights on my trailers; post-mortems have shown that some are completely potted as you describe, and some are bare circuit boards. None of the "RF welded and sealed" cases are waterproof for very long.


Quote:
I intend to solder the joints to the main cable, shrink wrap them and seal them in short lengths of plastic tube filled with epoxy.
Ancor makes an adhesive lined heat shrink tubing that works very well. The lining is essentially hot glue (as in an arts and crafts hot glue gun) which melts and seals everything when you shrink tube on the joint. Pretty handy.


jky
__________________
jyasaki is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04 January 2008, 12:24   #15
Member
 
Nasher's Avatar
 
Country: Other
Town: Principalite d'Chaos
Boat name: The Nashers Revenge!
Make: Ocean & Bombard
Length: 6m +
Engine: Suzi DT200EFI, DT9.9
MMSI: "Mmmmm SI" she said!
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 4,147
Jeff

Has Mr traffic plod ever commented on the position of your number plate and Light?

I thought they had to be right at the back of the trailer, ie hanging out behind the engine.

To be fair I don't do quite that myself, as the lightboard is level with the engine gearbox, but your setup leaves a lot of trailer, engine etc behind the lights.

Perhaps an 'expert' can comment as it would be a lot of work to put in if Mr plod made you change it after seeing it for the first time.

Nasher
__________________
RIBBED For extra pleasure.
Member of the ebay Blue RIB cover club.
Member of the Bombard 380 Aerotec club
Nasher is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04 January 2008, 12:51   #16
RIBnet supporter
 
bedajim's Avatar
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Cambs/Northants
Length: no boat
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 2,499
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nasher View Post
Jeff

Has Mr traffic plod ever commented on the position of your number plate and Light?

I thought they had to be right at the back of the trailer, ie hanging out behind the engine.

To be fair I don't do quite that myself, as the lightboard is level with the engine gearbox, but your setup leaves a lot of trailer, engine etc behind the lights.

Perhaps an 'expert' can comment as it would be a lot of work to put in if Mr plod made you change it after seeing it for the first time.

Nasher

They can't read it someeones painted it black


This makes interesting reading

http://www.ntta.co.uk/law/law/dimensions.htm
__________________
bedajim is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04 January 2008, 13:16   #17
Member
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Chesterfield
Boat name: Sea Quell
Make: Picton Cobra
Length: 5m +
Engine: Mercury 150 4 Stroke
MMSI: 235038298
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 859
Hi Nasher

Never been stopped but I had thought this covered it (from the NTTA):

Marking of rear overhang
Between 1m and 2m, ensure the end is clearly visible by attaching a piece of cloth or similar.
Between 2m and 3.05m, a marker board as defined in the Regulations must be fitted and illuminated at night.


.... but now I have also found this !?!?

The lighting board must be wide enough so the outer edge of the rear lights is within 150mm of the outer edge of the boat. This lighting board should be positioned within 1 metre of the end of the total overhang (which is often the mast), or otherwise the end of the overhang would have to be lit with an addition reflector and red lamp. The lighting board should not be more than 1.5 metres off the ground. The trailer also requires at least two amber reflectors down each side.


The overhang, with engine in tilt position is 1.6m though the transom is
I did originally mount the lights/brackets on the end of the sliding bars that were part of the original lighting board so I could slide in and out - but changed them to fixed mount as it removed all vibration and stopped me having to replace blown bulbs as often.

The good news is I have back up lighting and haven't had an issue with lights-out which would cause our friends in blue to stop me >>>

ANy experts out there .... pls

Jeff

Jeff
__________________
Jeff is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04 January 2008, 13:19   #18
Member
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Chesterfield
Boat name: Sea Quell
Make: Picton Cobra
Length: 5m +
Engine: Mercury 150 4 Stroke
MMSI: 235038298
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 859
Quote:
Originally Posted by bedajim View Post
They can't read it someeones painted it black

.... or I could always use dodgy plates

>>> some nice person recently stole the front and rear plates off my car !!!! Sir Plod says it is becoming more common ...... probably someone with a big RIB fuelling up for free


Jeff
__________________
Jeff is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04 January 2008, 13:29   #19
RIBnet admin team
 
Poly's Avatar
 
Country: UK - Scotland
Boat name: imposter
Make: FunYak
Length: 3m +
Engine: 2 stroke YAM 20 HP
MMSI: 235089819
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 10,112
does your number plate not need to be lit?
__________________
Poly is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04 January 2008, 13:30   #20
Member
 
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Aberdeenshire
Boat name: Kikican
Make: Vipermax 7
Length: 7m +
Engine: F250 / FT9.9 Aux
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 250
I was intending to use the sliding poles in the ends of the trailer frame just like they are at the moment. Either two separate boards with the no. plate on the starboard side or else I might put a tie bar between them bent down in the middle to allow for the boat to ride over. Spent a lot of time on my back studying the trailer from down low and there seems to be plenty of room.

Also considering hinging the two boards so that they fold flush with the side of the trailer when launching. You could have a thick bungee between them to pull them back into position when towing. This would give them some resistance to being knocked when in position.
__________________

__________________
Richard Selman is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

« Lowrance XOG | Top | Radar »
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off





Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 18:08.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.