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Old 30 January 2012, 16:57   #1
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Voltage drop while engine under load

Fellow Boat People ,

I have a problem !!!

I have a 1997 Evinrude 150 FICHT engine running like mouses heart, problem is that when the engine is idling the voltage is a steady 14.5v no problem but and there is always a but as the revs increase the voltage drops right off down to as low as 10v and drains the battery right down even the VHF goes to channel 16 sensing the voltage drop, and when the engine returns to idling speed the voltage returns to 14.5 V.
I need help !!!!
ps had an evinrude mechanic tell me to test battery ,all tests passed !!!!

Any idea's
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Old 30 January 2012, 17:25   #2
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Voltage regulator ?

Not sure to be honest, might be worth calling Steve at Race Marine in Taunton.
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Old 30 January 2012, 17:36   #3
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Thanks fiddler ,

Been told Voltage regulator just for converting from AC to DC ???

Ribdiver
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Old 30 January 2012, 17:53   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ribdiver View Post
Thanks fiddler ,

Been told Voltage regulator just for converting from AC to DC ???

Ribdiver
Its Mr Fiddler if you dont mind...

This explains the role of a voltage regulator.

"Your battery is 12 volts, but to keep the battery 100% charged and run all of your car's electrical doo-dads at the same time, the alternator has an output of between 13.5 and 14.8 volts. We'll learn more about that in a second. The alternator has three main components: The Stator, Rotor, Diode and a voltage regulator. When the alternator belt or V-belt spins the pulley on the alternator, the rotor inside the alternator spins ... fast. The rotor is basically a magnet or group of magnets that spin, with all that speed, inside a nest of copper wires. These wires are called the stator. I won't go into all of the details about why a magnet spinning within a bundle of copper produces electricity, but it does. (If you want some more technical details, check out this great article on How Electric Motors and Generator Work from my buds at Alt Fuels.) The next step in the chain is a diode assembly that changes the electricity from AC to DC current that your battery can use. There is a final step in the chain, the voltage regulator. In modern alternators, this is a built-in component. Back in the day voltage regulators were big black boxes that had to be bolted somewhere under the hood and wired into the system. The voltage regulator is basically a gatekeeper that will shut off the flow of juice to your battery if the voltage goes above a certain level, usually 14.5 volts. This keeps your battery from getting overcharged and cooked. That's it! As your battery is drained, current is allowed to flow back into it from the alternator and the cycle goes on and on."


Before you go off buying a voltage regulator however do check all your wiring for a bad earth etc. Clean the battery terminals and if you have wingnuts on them then replace these with nylocks.

I would also check under the cover of the engine check terminals and connections for wear or corrosion coat the terminals in electrical grease etc.
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Old 30 January 2012, 18:09   #5
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No I don't mind !!!!

Thanks for reply .

I've tried everything connections etc.

Problem is very hard to test because only happens under heavy load !!!!aaahhhh!!!

Ken

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Old 30 January 2012, 18:12   #6
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Pluis one what Chris says. I also changes from w/nuts to proper connectors. Does your bat cables go in a tube under deck to engine if so check both cables for corrosion.
Hope you get it fixed.
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Old 30 January 2012, 18:25   #7
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Jambo thanks for reply,

Never thought of cables running under deck.

done major refurb 2 years ago changed cables but will pull them to check condition.

Thanks

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Old 30 January 2012, 18:28   #8
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No problem Ken that was what caused me no end of trouble three years back.
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Old 31 January 2012, 09:41   #9
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How is the alternator driven if its via a belt check the tension sounds like its slipping when the engine is revved.
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Old 31 January 2012, 10:03   #10
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The alternator is part of the flywheel.
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