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Old 04 July 2013, 16:14   #11
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Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Aberdeenshire
Boat name: Sula
Make: Ribcraft 4.8m
Length: 4m +
Engine: Tohatsu 60hp + aux
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Could be corroded or break in the main power line. It's not particularly expensive to change, so that would be my first port of call. Fit tinned cable if changing.

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Old 04 July 2013, 16:34   #12
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Country: UK - Channel Islands
Town: jersey
Boat name: Martini II
Make: Arctic 28/FC470
Length: 8m +
Engine: twin 225Opti/50hp 2t
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Posts: 3,018
If I were you I'd just replace the heavy gauge battery cables and be done with it. Sounds like the current ones are corroded bare copper with dodgy crimps on the connections. New tinned wire (silver in colour rather than copper) with professionally crimped or soldered lugs would mean you wont have to worry about them again for many, many years.

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Old 04 July 2013, 16:39   #13
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Town: Girvan & Tayvallich
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Make: Ribcraft
Length: 5m +
Engine: Mercury 150 F/stroke
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Had simar problem a few years ago bad starting. The cables were badly corroded so replaced them. Sorted

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Old 04 July 2013, 16:53   #14
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Country: UK - England
Town: The wilds of Wiltshire
Boat name: WhiteNoise/Dominator
Make: Ballistic 7.8/SR5.4
Length: 7m +
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MMSI: 235090687/235055163
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Posts: 12,553
Should be fairly easy to find, and I'd almost bet it's the main negative terminal itself, or the cable into it.
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Old 05 July 2013, 07:19   #15
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Country: UK - Channel Islands
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Make: Osprey Vipermax
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One possible scenario is an intermittent fault inside the battery. One of my cars had this recently. The battery was a decent Varta, less than 2 years old and would start the car fine one minute but not the next. Obviously each time I went to the factor it would behave itself, but they eventually took it in overnight and tested it and agreed it was faulty. Got it replaced under their 3 year warranty. So, if absolutely everything else checks out ok on your boat then maybe swap batteries with your car if poss and see if the fault transfers.
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