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Old 01 March 2015, 23:15   #11
ncp's Avatar
Country: USA
Town: California
Make: Avon 5.4m Searider
Length: 5m +
Engine: Yamaha 90
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 1,104
Originally Posted by Bigtalljv View Post
Looks good but I'm not the expert. Unless budget is a serious issue is use a breaker instead of the blade fuse. Make life simpler as its one less spare to have around.

Agreed - My Willard doesn't have a single fuse (all circuit breakers).

But, I'll have to carry fuses no matter what. Both of the switch panels that I looked at (Blue Seas and BEP) had integrated blade type fuse holders. So, I'd need them anyways.

If I do choose to go with a master circuit breaker for the 12v DC panel, it will probably be a Cooper Bussman 185/187 in 30A (The Series 187 Marine Rated Circuit Breaker features a manual reset with switchable function and is single pole thermal type.).

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Old 02 March 2015, 15:44   #12
Country: UK - England
Town: Gloucestershire
Boat name: Osprey
Make: Osprey Vipermax
Length: 5m +
Engine: E-tec 300 G2
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 4,008
Originally Posted by ncp View Post
Ok, since my last post I've taken the advice and re-drawn things.

-substituted BEP on/off switch and switch panel - cheaper. I can't say that I think any less of the quality of Marinco/BEP versus Blue Sea Systems.
-30A blade type fuse is the most cost effective here before the switch panel - especially since I've read that I don't actually need circuit protection at <40" and if in a conduit.
-removed the studs since you guys have said that the run to the engine needs to be as direct as possible and it's ok having two terminals to each battery post.
Looks fine to me, I always over spec the supply to the fuse / switch panel as you never know what you might want to fit in the future. For example a 12V outlet to run a hi power search light or an inflation pump for a small tender, these can draw up to 25AMPs, however if you don't see this being a requirement then the 30amp inline with 10AWG will be fine.

Chris Stevens

Born fiddler
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Old 04 March 2015, 03:30   #13
Country: Canada
Town: Southern Ontario
Boat name: -Unknown-
Make: SeaMax
Length: 4m +
Engine: Merc/Minn Kota
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 216
FYI: Primary run between engine and battery is too long. Unlike AC Current, DC Current rapidly loses current on long-runs between battery and starter solenoid, and if the outboard utilizes a battery charging circuit, that length of run "13 feet" you will also lose an Amp or Two when the engine's trying to send low DC current to the battery to recharge.
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Old 04 March 2015, 04:11   #14
boristhebold's Avatar
Country: UK - England
Length: 7m +
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,279
Originally Posted by Bigtalljv View Post
I ran my ground, engine and batteries, to a large common grounding block. The breaker panels are fed with 10awg wire, 100amp breakers before that. Remember you are protecting the wire not the electronics for most part.

Wiring is an art, I am not an artist. Ended up with crossed wires . Looks ugly.

Attachment 103189
That doesn't look ugly, looks damn neat compared to a lot of wiring. I redid mine last year and made improvements but still not happy with it all. I have a NMEA 0183 set-up, I will probably go NMEA2000 or Ray marine Sea TAlk next year.

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