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Old 09 July 2015, 18:42   #1
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Country: UK - England
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Rib Electrics

Hey all,

Long time on and off lurker to this forum and now a new member and owner of a RIB I'd like to take care of! The wiring is a bit shocking on this one I've acquired, with all of it going straight to the battery - Some of it running across the inboard fuel tank (but disconnected). The radio isn't connected but looked like it was also plumbed straight into the battery with an inline fuse, so I guess my initial question to all you is should I fit a separate fused IP rated distro board, if so which one? The boat works a dream but I'd like to get the electrics ok as I plan to fit a few other things that need power in the future. Any advice gratefully received and apologies if this same thing has been brought up in other posts!
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Old 10 July 2015, 03:21   #2
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May depend upon type of boat, whether twin or single engine set-up and how much electronics your thinking of fitting.

Need to consider connectivity issues, as in Nmea 0183 or Nmea2000 or specific to electonics like ray marine networking or the garmin networking stiff.

Start with a large bit of paper and consider what you want to fit or have or connect up, then draw out wiring diagram, should include in your case things like positive and negative bus bars and fused bus bars etc.

Then once happy with that order the marine wiring and connectors and other bits from a suitable stockist and keep a week or so free to do all the work.

Also consider loads in terms of amps and dont scrimp on the batteries or batter cables and connectors, you might even think about a switched battery bank.

Sound slike a lot of work but best done on paper first otherwise you may have issues later on.
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Old 10 July 2015, 08:35   #3
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Thanks for the advice Boris!
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Old 10 July 2015, 09:12   #4
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I've just done a complete rigging job. Good advice from Boris, space
Is at an absolute premium in a console. I used tinned copper cables throughout & heatshrink terminals all bought from Kojaycat, good price & excellent service. Blue Sea is top quality gear for fuse boards & accessories. Carling switches for the console. Get hold of an Aquafax brochure section 8 iirc. Plan it all out & take your time. I got a large sheet of paper & made a template of the inside of the console & the dash, I spent time laying it all out & working out fixings & cable routes etc.Click image for larger version

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.....sh1t happens.......
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Old 10 July 2015, 11:02   #5
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Pikey Dave that is way nice, can you redo mine like that LOL ....

And how come it looks so dry and clean in there, inside my console it looks dirty, even though ive put in extra vents. I guess being under a cover in a dry stack doesnt give enouth ventilation.

I have currently a damn dodgy wire somewhere between my guages and the ignition switch which means the engine guages go off sometimes, have to spend saturday trying to trace the problem. drat.
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Old 10 July 2015, 12:32   #6
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Ideally every separate component has a switch so that in a fault you can isolate it individually. For some that could be on the component, but if the component is a soft switch rather than a 'proper' switch it will probably still be drawing a very minimal current when off.

Everything should have a fuse. Logic says the fuse design should be the same across all components so only carry one set of spares.

Should be a master isolator switch... Although some people would say the radio should bypass that (still fuses, still switched) so that if the isolator switch fails you can still scream for help.

Minimise connections/joins.

Make connections waterproof and don't have them in the bilge even if waterproofed.

Plan now for future expansion.

Label well.
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Old 14 July 2015, 01:01   #7
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I run all lighting, dept/fish finder, LED lights, Bildge pump and all else off one fused 8 switch-switch panel (electric motor off separate battery). Incorporated sounder, switch panel, lighter-plug socket and brass screw direct outputs within a quality battery case. The switch panel is connected to battery with an 20 amp fuse outside the wired battery case using 10 gauge standed wire. So it's all one unit. Also have small solar panel monted on battery too. My trolling motor batter has to brass screwed outputs in-case I need to jump the other batter in an emergency. I'll post a picture at some point, though I believe I did already a year ago.
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Old 19 July 2015, 04:42   #8
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Oh, a couple of other tips.
Ensure each battery cell sulphuric acid level is just above the plates..if not, carefully, using a fully and wearing safety glasses, add ONLY distilled water till just above the plates in each cell. The voltage test should be done two-three times 20 minutes apart after charging on each battery, noting any drop in voltage. The Starter Load Test varies depending on motor size and manufacturer. EG: For an automobile it should never draw more than 275 amps during cranking. Good luck.
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