Rewire update

[chrisallse]

I have most of the wiring in place, fitted a fuel gauge, Radio etc. Just going to start the final and most fiddly bit, the termination to the new terminal/fuse board. Still a bit to do.

[arn.george]

Looks good! Have you checked the compass with power on to the gps and radio? I had problems with interfernce and getting true reading on compass

[jackeen]

whow chris looking good chief.
could you not fit a kitchen sink in there some where

is the wheel cold in the winter !!!!!

and not a wire in sight all infra red

p

[chrisallse]

Originally Posted by arn.george

Looks good! Have you checked the compass with power on to the gps and radio? I had problems with interfernce and getting true reading on compass

Not much room to put things, if i have a problem i might fit a fluxgate in the bottom of the console.

[chrisallse]

Originally Posted by jackeen

whow chris looking good chief.
could you not fit a kitchen sink in there some where

is the wheel cold in the winter !!!!!

and not a wire in sight all infra red

p

The sink is at the rear as for the wheel, i have a secret device to keep my hands warm......called willowkis

[jwalker]

Looks good, Chris. Are these waterproof toggles you've used?

Is that a new steering wheel too?

[bogib]

Wow Chris this is neat how you haf fit all in, an surely you will not be out of communications. What a woman Willowkis if she can keep your warm in the winter time, Steinunn will freeze me for sure

[chrisallse]

Originally Posted by jwalker

Looks good, Chris. Are these waterproof toggles you've used?

Is that a new steering wheel too?

Thanks, yes they are IP67 so are the leds and S/Steel they have a silicone rubber seal at the base of the toggle..not cheap but good quality. the previous switches had rubber covers over the toggles but they seem to perish in no time. the LEDS have an O ring seal behind the flange. The steering wheel is original.
I wil post some pics of the wiring when its complete, i have wired discreet circuits to each load, both neg and pos, so that i wont have groups of things fail if i lose an earth. I have put an extra Auto bilge pump(there are now three) with the ability to switch all on or just the Auto for when its left unattended.

All the connector blocks and fuse blocks are marine with S/steel components, I decided on fuses as i thought they may be more reliable given the pounding a hull gets.

All the connections are soldered to tinned eyed connectors and then sealed with adhesive lined heat shrink sleeving. in line connections to cables are soldered, sleeved and then wrapped in self amalgamating tape rather than using crimp connectors.

I am going to use one battery for starting and one for the equipment with a DC to DC charger, the equipment supply will be fused at the battery and then again in the console. (the existing wiring was a liability, they had used a piece of three core mains cable from the battery to the console without a sign of a fuse)

[jwalker]

It sounds good. I certainly go along with the discreet circuit principle.

[Jelly]

Hi Chrisallse
Question why have you gone down the route of soldering?
In PBO and other publications you see 'experts' saying not to solder but to use crimps as the flux in the solder can eat the metal away.
On ships you need to fit multistrand wire so when vibration finally causes a strand to break you dont get an open circuit.
When you solder you create a single strand, though crimping must do the same.
A tip from the subsea guys was when making a wiring joint thats going to get wet was to put tiny 'o'rings on the cores just back fron the end of the insulation, so when you shrunk the glue filled heat shrink over it all it added to the seals.
Rgds
James