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Old 26 January 2012, 15:12   #1
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rev counter

hi, i have just got this boat and i have just stripped the spaggetti out of the console as some of the wires were not connected,i am not sure if the rev counter worked or not,it is a 703 remote with the 7core wire, the wires are all there and i can identify them, i think! the problem is that some of the connections look a little corroded, rather than replace them at the risk of more corrosion would i be better off soldering the wires to maintain a good connection .
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Old 27 January 2012, 04:49   #2
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Verify that they all work first - then solder and cover with glue lined heatshrink tubing to protect.
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Old 27 January 2012, 09:36   #3
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a squirt with contact cleaner / quick rub with fine grade sandpaper should get enough connectivity for a test.
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Old 28 January 2012, 02:58   #4
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a squirt with contact cleaner / quick rub with fine grade sandpaper should get enough connectivity for a test.

i tried to seperate the connectors and some of the wires pulled out,so to test i shortened it all as much as i could to do away with all the connectors, i then joined it all together and hey presto i have a working rev counter, the thing is,do i need all the other wires that were connected?i will need to test the overheat alarm and oil alarm as i didnt have time to test them, could i wire in a audible alarm, [buzzer] if so how?
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Old 30 January 2012, 05:29   #5
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How old is your engine?

If it's a 2- stroke the chances are the overheat warning is a bimetallic switch - i.e off- on. The easiest way to check the wiring to the buzzer for that is disconnect the switch at the engine, and short the two terminals. If it buzzes, you don't have a problem! (but remember that doesn't test the calibration of the thermal switch)

It may also stall the engine if you are testing it while running as some are coupled to the deadman circuit too.

Some (modern ones) are fired from the engine management box. if yours is one of them, I'd wait to see if one of the Yam experts can shed any more light on it.
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Old 30 January 2012, 07:58   #6
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How old is your engine?

If it's a 2- stroke the chances are the overheat warning is a bimetallic switch - i.e off- on. The easiest way to check the wiring to the buzzer for that is disconnect the switch at the engine, and short the two terminals. If it buzzes, you don't have a problem! (but remember that doesn't test the calibration of the thermal switch)

It may also stall the engine if you are testing it while running as some are coupled to the deadman circuit too.

Some (modern ones) are fired from the engine management box. if yours is one of them, I'd wait to see if one of the Yam experts can shed any more light on it.


engine is a 60hp yamaha 1989, 2 stroke
i understand it goes to limp home mode on overheating, well drops to 2000 revs,i just think that for low oil and temp audible alarms may be better as you can hear them, might not see them for looking elsewhere,the oil wasnt connected so i will connect it in, it is the yamaha rev counter with 3 warning lights,would i be able to take a wire off the alarms to a buzzer and have both,
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Old 30 January 2012, 08:50   #7
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No reason why not if they are in parallel. Any 12V buzzer from Maplin or your favourite electrical bits shop should work. You could have three different ones with different sounds so you get an audible difference too.

Other silly Q - there isn't a buzzer in the rev. counter, is there? There is normally one in the 703 controls, whether your engine is wired to it or not with that tacho setup is another question.....
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Old 30 January 2012, 15:27   #8
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No reason why not if they are in parallel. Any 12V buzzer from Maplin or your favourite electrical bits shop should work. You could have three different ones with different sounds so you get an audible difference too.

Other silly Q - there isn't a buzzer in the rev. counter, is there? There is normally one in the 703 controls, whether your engine is wired to it or not with that tacho setup is another question.....

that i dont know,maybe i should short the sender to see what alarm it gives for the overheat, i do know the 3 lights are for the oil levels,green full, amber 0.8 lt oil, red 0.3 left , so the manual says,i will wire it in fill the oil and drain it to test the sender,
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Old 31 January 2012, 11:26   #9
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sounds like a plan.

Don't know how your oil tank is arranged - could you just poke the float down with the oil still in? Would save a lot of messy faffing.....
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Old 31 January 2012, 16:53   #10
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the tank has a drain off pipe so its easy to put it in a bottle drain down n fingers crossed, i think the sender is in a tube so may be dificult to get into
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