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Old 27 August 2004, 03:30   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwalker
If you are able, make one.
Thanks for the schematic, I had already thought there may be a need for some electronic solutions to sort out common problems. If I get time I shall knock one up and maybe a couple of spares that anyone else can have (free) to see if it cures the problem, 'evaluation' kind of thing. I have great facilities for building kit for harsh environments so may have lots of little projects on the horizon.

I shall look through the posts and try to find some other problems that may only require simple solutions, let me know if anyone has such a suggestion. There must be loads of cases in need of remedy.
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Old 27 August 2004, 07:36   #12
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This was very recently discussed - the best bet seems to be the following

http://www.waterwitch.info/

http://www.penguinfrigo.co.uk/default.shtm

As posted by SWIFT.

looks worth a try!
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Old 27 August 2004, 07:38   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rogue Wave
Jeff 3/10 (see me) you couldn't do that again in a darker colour could you?
Teachers do it in red!

Actually, I've hung up me pen so I suppose I could do it neatly, just for you.
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Old 27 August 2004, 17:03   #14
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Done.
A couple of wee mods to the above diagrams for those who drop spanners.
If I can get around to it, I'll put a circuit together where the probes short to ground to trigger the relay. A bit more failsafe, I think.
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Old 27 August 2004, 18:41   #15
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10/10 well done
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Old 01 September 2004, 07:54   #16
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Rule 1100gph

I use a Rule automatic Bilge pump and find it great (no probs yet anyway!)

Its fully electronic and doesnt use probes or float switches but instead tries to pump every 2.5 minutes. If there is water present it continues to pump until the sump is empty then stops.

The electronics senses the load on the impeller and therefore knows whether water is present.

It pumps 1100 Gallons / Hour.

I tend to leave the battery switch on when the boat is in the water but unattended. So far I have left it for about 10 days in a row and the 110Ah battery was fine. (Draws very little current when in check mode)
Not cheap though - about 85 I think but then if you add a decent pump and seperate switch together I bet you wouldnt get much change out of 85 anyway.

Well worth considering in my opinion!

Nick
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Old 01 September 2004, 09:42   #17
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Whilst noot quite on the subject this is a link to a US site with reports on bilge pumps
http://www.powerboat-reports.com/sample/bilge.html
Rgds
James
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Old 01 September 2004, 13:45   #18
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Cheers everyone.

I shall take a close look at JW's circuit and maybe see if I can build one. If not I'll happily evaluate one for ScottyDog.

And yes ScottyDog, I did get a reply from Prosport within 24 hours. I couldn't get through on the phone of course but sent a fax instead asking them to give me a call, and lo and behold my phone rang the next morning . Still took 5 days for the replacement to get to me, but that's probably something to do with Guernsey Post stockpiling parcels until they feel like sending them the 20 miles or so to their sister island.
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Old 01 September 2004, 14:05   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick Hensel
I use a Rule automatic Bilge pump and find it great (no probs yet anyway!)

Its fully electronic and doesnt use probes or float switches but instead tries to pump every 2.5 minutes. If there is water present it continues to pump until the sump is empty then stops.

The electronics senses the load on the impeller and therefore knows whether water is present.

It pumps 1100 Gallons / Hour.

I tend to leave the battery switch on when the boat is in the water but unattended. So far I have left it for about 10 days in a row and the 110Ah battery was fine. (Draws very little current when in check mode)
Not cheap though - about 85 I think but then if you add a decent pump and seperate switch together I bet you wouldnt get much change out of 85 anyway.

Well worth considering in my opinion!

Nick
Glad to hear that nick just fitted one of those.
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Old 01 September 2004, 20:17   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottyDog
Thanks for the schematic, If I get time I shall knock one up ....
ScottyDog, I missed this post.If you're going to make one use a PNP darlington and put the probes from the base to ground. That will prevent there being a voltage sitting on one probe. TIP 125, 126 & 127 are PNP's.
That'll save me a job .
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