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Old 20 September 2013, 12:52   #11
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Really great advice so far I really appreciate it. Im going to start probably in october or november but will be planning the project before that. Will take before, during and after pics.

One question why would circuit breakers be better than fuses ?
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Old 20 September 2013, 12:55   #12
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Thanks for that. Guess its a good thing I have never seen one on a boat, I know I've seen one before in a store somewhere. Maybe for home entertainment/stereo? In general I'd say a wire to screw connection like that is only common in the States for static connections in a house. Wire to circuit breaker connections in a house use something similar, but its typically solid wire (not stranded) and unless there's an earthquake, no vibrations.

On boats this is the norm. With a heat shinked crimped ring terminal on the ends of the wire. (No wrapping the wire around the screw!)

It is not suitable for domestic wiring as solid strand wire does not compress like multistrand and so reduces surface contact. This causes ressistance and generates heat so may be the source of fires. Domestic wiring is governed by regulation that is strictly enforced. You may have half the voltage but you have double the current as the power is still the same.
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Old 20 September 2013, 13:04   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boristhebold View Post

One question why would circuit breakers be better than fuses ?
Unless you're going to buy specifically rated breakers, they aren't better as long as you make sure the fuses can't corrode.

I have the new breed of 'lights up if blown' fuses in a 12 fuse and -ve busbar Blue Sea fusebox on the Ballistic, plus 25a breakers on the switch panel (they were already on it and wired in, so I used them).

It's all held together with tinned cable of varying ratings and glue lined heatshrink terminals from Vehicle Wiring Products. I think there's only 2 soldered cable joints on the entire boat and they're encased in glue lined heatshrink to stop them moving. I really don't like soldered joints. They fail when they vibrate.
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Old 20 September 2013, 13:32   #14
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It is not suitable for domestic wiring as solid strand wire does not compress like multistrand and so reduces surface contact. This causes ressistance and generates heat so may be the source of fires. Domestic wiring is governed by regulation that is strictly enforced. You may have half the voltage but you have double the current as the power is still the same.
I can tell you that every (maybe not every but every breaker in common use) domestic circuit breaker sold in the States today uses a screw to hold a solid stranded wire in compression. Typically 14, 12, or 10 gauge solid copper wire. Aluminum wire is no longer used inside houses, but commonly used for street to house connections (its stranded).

Typical wall outlets are 120V with 15 to 20amp breakers. 240V circuits (clothes dryers, ovens, water heaters, heat pumps, large AC units) use 2x 120V legs + and 1 or 2 neutrals.

A 240V breaker looks like this, the wires go under the screws shown


A 120V breaker would be 1/2 the width and only have 1 screw.

Inside the ciruit breaker box is a distribution bar supplying power to the back side of the breaker which then sends it out to the wire/device.

Neutral (ground) bars in a house look very similar to the choc block shown. Just made of tinned copper.
Again a solid copper wire goes under the screw.

Obviously none of these products are remotely suitable for a boat. But they are code approved and in virtually every house here in the States.
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Old 20 September 2013, 15:31   #15
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I spent 20 minutes trying to remember that the correct term for what I meant is CRIMPERS. Dohhhh

The reason I prefer breakers is that there is no need to carry spare fuses which will, inevitably, corrode and decay.

Comments regarding choc blocks spot on. Suggested alternative also spot on.

Ian

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Old 20 September 2013, 15:34   #16
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On second reading, looks like our American cousins may use "breaker" to mean fuse.

I am specifically referring to marine breakers which have a switch which remakes the connection. Blue Sea are a good example.

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Old 20 September 2013, 15:45   #17
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On second reading, looks like our American cousins may use "breaker" to mean fuse.
North American English is the same as yours in this area (unusual I know!)

Circuit breaker = breaker = a resettable current limiting device.
Fuse = fusible link = a one time use current limiting connection. You have to carry spares.
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Old 04 October 2013, 14:33   #18
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Another vote for VWP from me.

Seller 'Bargainbitz1' on eBay are also very good, with most orders arriving the next day.

I've just done some re-wiring and planned the bundles out on a bit of ply, then used nails in the same board to arrange the wires neatly.
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Old 04 October 2013, 16:25   #19
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9 times out of 10 the fuse box is situated out of harms way in the console out of reach, so when a fuse blows, or falls out of its mount as they never seem to be as great as they look, you can not easily see what's going on.

where as if you have breakers fitted, or a switch panel with breakers fitted, if anything trips the breaker has popped up and you can visually see.... And as mentioned no need to carry any spare fuses.... It seems a much better option in my opinion

I have always fitted breakers so they are visible by the switch they are associated to.
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Old 04 October 2013, 20:25   #20
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These are rather good-got them in the Ballistic.

5 Pc LED Intelligent Car Plug In Fuse Set - 5A-25A Light Up When Blown | eBay

The type with a bulb protruding wont fit in a Blue Sea fusebox-the cover won't go on.
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