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Old 06 August 2012, 16:40   #11
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Re Bridge/Lights issues, please ensure that you write/email the Harbour Master at PHC, as this is a regular problem that we all experience and the more that complain, the quicker it will be sorted.
I have been stuck on Red and seen the bridge control outside the "office" having a quick fag!
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Old 02 September 2012, 03:45   #12
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Other than the VSR there is also the split diode - although would like to avoid the pros and cons of both as it would have been done many times before :-)

cheers
Tim
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Old 02 September 2012, 08:31   #13
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Originally Posted by Oscarguitar View Post
Boris,

Have you thought about getting a VSR? This will charge both batteries, engine start first and safeguard your engine start battery only allowing it to draw down to a certain voltage before isolating it and using only the house battery for accessories. I fitted one two years ago and I know a number of others have the same set up. Very reliable and idiot proof so suits me well. You don't need to remember which battery to use. If you already have two batteries fitting it should be straightforward. The BEP VSR is the one fitted by Cobra and the one that I used for my boat. Powerstore in Poole stock them.

Power Store
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Old 02 September 2012, 09:04   #14
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I had a problem with my tow truck where sometimes after a nice long drive it wouldn't start as it would crank too slowly. If I kept cranking, the battery would go completely flat very quickly. If I left it long enough without first flattening it completely, it would start fine.

The voltage read fine whenever I tested it. I replaced lots of wiring, connectors, battery leads etc with little change. Out of frustration I purchased a new battery when I couldn't start after refueling.

This new battery cured all my starting problems. When I discussed this with an engineer friend of mine, he did a load test on the old battery after a recharge and it turned out it was past it's use by date, even though a straight voltage test indicated it was fine.
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Old 06 November 2012, 03:14   #15
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Originally Posted by kubcat View Post
I had a problem with my tow truck where sometimes after a nice long drive it wouldn't start as it would crank too slowly. If I kept cranking, the battery would go completely flat very quickly. If I left it long enough without first flattening it completely, it would start fine.

The voltage read fine whenever I tested it. I replaced lots of wiring, connectors, battery leads etc with little change. Out of frustration I purchased a new battery when I couldn't start after refueling.

This new battery cured all my starting problems. When I discussed this with an engineer friend of mine, he did a load test on the old battery after a recharge and it turned out it was past it's use by date, even though a straight voltage test indicated it was fine.
Once had the same problem, mine would turn-over but not start after refueling or shutting-off for a brief period 2-10 min or more on warmer days.
It was a No Spark condition. After a series of tests (batt voltage fine), etc.. and months of changing-out almost all electrical primary/secondary items and going through two starters, the only thing left to change was the magnetic pick-up inside the distributor. Boom--away it went and never had another hot start problem.
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