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Old 20 June 2011, 20:40   #31
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Originally Posted by nigelbread View Post
One thing to watch out for is discharged battery freezing.
"a severely discharged battery can freeze at -1C."
Any normal starting battery that is "severely discharged" on a regular basis will be f'ked sooner rather than later anyway. Speaking as somebody who sells vehicle batteries at work.

There's a good argument for "buy cheap and replace often"
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Old 01 July 2011, 20:01   #32
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I ended buying a Numax CXS battery today got good price :d and good refund for my old unipart samson battery under warranty
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Old 22 September 2011, 17:30   #33
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Ctek 7000 is great. Keeps batteries in condition and will bring them back from the dead

Proper bargain at 75 from amazon today

http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=nb_sb_...k+7000&x=0&y=0
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Old 22 September 2011, 17:36   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BogMonster View Post
Any normal starting battery that is "severely discharged" on a regular basis will be f'ked sooner rather than later anyway. Speaking as somebody who sells vehicle batteries at work.

There's a good argument for "buy cheap and replace often"
True for car batteries, as you say. But don't use car batteries in a boat - use a leisure battery. They have thicker plates to withstand the internal stresses (which would buckle the plates in a car battery) created by longer cranking times and can handle deep discharge. (Ewwwww... that sounds unpleasant!! )

BTW I used to buy a standard leisure battery from Towsure and found them very good - at least four years use with no additional charging.
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Old 22 September 2011, 18:12   #35
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I know plenty of people who use standard car batteries quite successfully. Not sure why the cracking time would be longer on a boat. Is the need a leisure battery thing just marketing no justify higher prices?
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Old 22 September 2011, 18:26   #36
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True for car batteries, as you say. But don't use car batteries in a boat - use a leisure battery. They have thicker plates to withstand the internal stresses (which would buckle the plates in a car battery) created by longer cranking times and can handle deep discharge. (Ewwwww... that sounds unpleasant!! )
Should have bought an Etec then, starts straight away

I think it depends on your usage TBH. I don't sit in the boat with stuff switched on and the engine not running, not for long anyway. As an added factor, and accepting this probably doesn't apply to anybody else on here, a car battery is what I can buy locally and anything else will cost a fortune as a special import. I also know that a decent heavy duty 4x4 battery will crank a diesel engine of the same cc as my Etec for quite a long time and in my LR I can probably leave the VHF on all night and get away with it so in the boat it's unlikely to be a problem.

If you regularly expect to significantly discharge the boat battery, or have lots of power hungry stuff on board, I'd probably agree with you. I don't - my charge/discharge pattern is pretty similar to a vehicle - so personally I wouldn't worry about it. When my Osprey's battery (which I guess probably is a leisure battery) is knackered, I'll just fit the biggest 4x4 battery I can fit in the battery box.

The flip side of leisure batteries is also that size for size their CCA is usually less.
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Old 22 September 2011, 18:30   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Polwart
Not sure why the cracking time would be longer on a boat.
the reason is the leisure battery had less cold cracking power! hence if you use a leisure it seems it cranks longer!

For high instant cracking - traction battery
for low current long drain - leisure battery

or you can do what I did and bought s hybrid - never or!

regards
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Old 22 September 2011, 18:38   #38
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Is the need a leisure battery thing just marketing no justify higher prices?
No, a leisure battery should have thicker plates, hence more lead, so greater price. But it's more durable. Car betteries are built light for several reasons, but deep discharge and long cranking can damage them quickly.


In normal use, a car battery will suffice. And the cold cranking thing - in normal use with a good engine you shouldn't notice any difference in performance/cranking degredation with the lower rated leisure battery.

The big difference is that if you're in a situation where things aren't optimal, the battery gets discharged and you still need to start the engine, the leisure battery has more chance of achieving this, and can take the abuse that might get thrown at it. In a situation where with the car you'd call the AA ~(other breakdown services are available!) you can't in a boat!
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Old 22 September 2011, 19:51   #39
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You can get non-marine 3 stage chargers really cheap nowadays. If the boat or battery is stored indoors they can be left connected indefinitely. Seems that the OP's battery being ruined (electrolyte boiled off etc) by a poor charger to me.
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Old 13 October 2011, 19:31   #40
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Jump Start box to power fixed radio and small GPS

I'd like opinions on using one of these instead of a normal battery on a small (3.1m) rib with a pull cord starter.

Maplin have one for 55 with a 17ah battery, torch, 200w mains inverter, 12v sockets and air compressor.
HeavyDuty 5in1 Jump Starter Free Delivery : InCar Battery Chargers and Compressors : Maplin

By my reckoning it would be capable of running over 10 hours with plenty still left and could then be charged overnight ready for the next day.

If it lasted that long it might also be useful in an emergency when I upgrade to a bigger rib with electric start.

Thanks
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