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Old 09 March 2011, 18:28   #11
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Country: UK - England
Town: Southampton
Boat name: SMH Rib / War Shot
Make: Ribtec / Scorpion
Length: 4m +
Engine: 10hp Yam / 150hp opt
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,894
RIBase
Is one of your batteries actually going flat?

If so, it sounds like you have a problem that needs to be sorted out rather than a set up that needs changing.

Battery in poor condition?
Faulty equipment drawing large current?
Partial short circuit somewhere?

If your batteries aren't going flat then I wouldn't worry.

My current boat has two batteries - but only ever use one at a time for both starting and electronics. Always leave the plotter and sounder running if leaving the boat for a couple of hours and heve never had any problems.

Previous boat only had one battery and again no problems.
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Old 10 March 2011, 04:47   #12
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Country: Australia
Town: adelaide
Boat name: tba
Make: custom
Length: 7m +
Engine: outboard,200+
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 71
Have a look at this site on twin battery setups,it may be of some help.
http://continuouswave.com/whaler/ref...alBattery.html
regards
rpm
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Old 10 March 2011, 05:53   #13
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Country: UK - Wales
Town: Tenby
Boat name: Dash Duck
Make: BWM
Length: 5m +
Engine: Twin 60's
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 165
Thanks for that, i think i will adopt the 3rd way, so the electronics can be run from either battery and then i also have the option to have the batteries in parallel if one gets low.

Ed
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Old 13 March 2011, 06:15   #14
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Country: UK - England
Town: canterbury
Boat name: TT dougal
Make: valiant
Length: 3m +
Engine: outboard
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 20
my advise would be use the key type isolator but only keep 2 keys avalible, put one key away, this means you CANNOT accidently have both engines running charging the same battery
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