Installing boat lightpole - Page 2

treerat · 12 January 2013, 08:17

Quote:

Originally Posted by Downhilldai

No, the pole would/could turn and the knee would need twice as many holes in it.

If the plate was made so it dropped over the shape of the knee on all three sides and was bolted at the top via the existing bolt (or a longer one) no holes would be needed.

Wouldn't be able to twist or move.

spartacus · 12 January 2013, 09:31

Quote:

Originally Posted by treerat

If the plate was made so it dropped over the shape of the knee on all three sides and was bolted at the top via the existing bolt (or a longer one) no holes would be needed.

Wouldn't be able to twist or move.

Thanks for input - but that sounds over-engineered? I'm going to make a plywood template today so I know that it works. I like the idea of plating one side of the knee which will be welded to the light pole base. It can be secured with 3 button bolts for a tidy finish. Using the existing transom eye bolt, I'll add a flange/securing plate to the light pole here for rigidity. If that doesn't hold it - goodness knows what will. Straight onto the transom is probably the easiest option, but I really didn't want to have to put holes in it.

Pics to follow

spartacus · 19 January 2013, 14:44

Blue Peter version first before I make a plywood version for manufacturer.

I think I'll go for 1¼" stainless steel instead of 1" tubing, given height and its location.

Any thoughts on this mounting method? I'll use existing transom ring bolt and penny washer (as pictured) - thanks DHD for that suggestion. Might get this stainless steel bracket routed slightly so there's a degree of adjustment where it connects to the transom ring bolt.

The lower mounting plate will be bolted through the transom knee, probably 2-3 button bolts. It probably won't sit as flush as I want, but I'll use a bead of sikaflex on the back of the plate, then a bead on the visible edge of the mount for a tidy finish.

Remind me to clean the drain well bilge!

simon23 · 19 January 2013, 16:49

That looks like it will be a neat job.i have a light,flag and soon to be arieal post on my rib i think its made from 2" tube.

Robbie Diesel · 19 January 2013, 23:10

I can tell you now, that cardboard will NEVER hold up......

Seriously though, it looks a neat solution

9D280 · 19 January 2013, 23:21

Fancy the job of designing my new A-frame?

spartacus · 20 January 2013, 08:28

Quote:

Originally Posted by Robbie Diesel

I can tell you now, that cardboard will NEVER hold up......

Seriously though, it looks a neat solution

I know, chocolate and teapot come to mind!

Quote:

Originally Posted by 9D280

Fancy the job of designing my new A-frame?

If you want it over-budget, out with deadline and made from Christmas paper cardboard tubes then send me details!

9D280 · 21 January 2013, 11:26

Quote:

Originally Posted by spartacus

If you want it over-budget, out with deadline and made from Christmas paper cardboard tubes then send me details!

Genius! - A weight reduction!

But you know what - as a prototyping ideas go..... And here was me going to muck about with polypipe!

spartacus · 08 February 2013, 20:27

Update. Received the light pole back today. Really quick service, and communication has been excellent... or so I thought. They've only gone and fitted the flag cleat and toggle point on the wrong side!

Now it's up, it's probably a little on the high side? I specified 6', from the top of the transom. Possibly over the top. Reckon I could get away with 4½' instead. Bu**er!

I can live with the flag attachments being on the wrong side as it doesn't effect the functionality and I could probably rig something - but it wasn't what I specified. I supplied a detailed drawing (part of the benefit of being a designer).

Any suggestions? Send it back and get them to lop off a foot (its in 3 sections) and call it quits?

biffer · 09 February 2013, 08:19

Quote:

Originally Posted by spartacus

Blue Peter version first before I make a plywood version for manufacturer.

I think I'll go for 1¼" stainless steel instead of 1" tubing, given height and its location.

Any thoughts on this mounting method? I'll use existing transom ring bolt and penny washer (as pictured) - thanks DHD for that suggestion. Might get this stainless steel bracket routed slightly so there's a degree of adjustment where it connects to the transom ring bolt.

The lower mounting plate will be bolted through the transom knee, probably 2-3 button bolts. It probably won't sit as flush as I want, but I'll use a bead of sikaflex on the back of the plate, then a bead on the visible edge of the mount for a tidy finish.

Remind me to clean the drain well bilge!

You could make a shoe that fits down the side of that knee with a tube welded to it. You would then just drop the light pole into it, pinch bolt to stop it hopping out

spartacus · 09 February 2013, 10:17

Please see pictures Biffer. Weld on the transom knee plate looks very lightweight to me (in my opinion) with only 3-4 weld points. Could use an additional weld on the tube where it leaves the backing plate to minimise flexing.

The flag attachment points on the wrong side are a complete pain in the a*se!

spartacus · 09 February 2013, 10:18

See weld points...

spartacus · 09 February 2013, 10:21

Only 3-4 weld points. Now I'd have thought they would run a seam of weld. Thats what they did around the top of the tube where it attaches to the light and VHF antenna plate, and its a tidy job too.

biffer · 09 February 2013, 11:05

Is there any welds down the side if the tube

spartacus · 09 February 2013, 11:39

Quote:

Originally Posted by biffer

Is there any welds down the side if the tube

There are two spot welds at the bottom of the tube (pictured), and the one weld half way up the outside of tube (also pictured). The final weld is in the corner of the 90 degree plate nearest the transom knee. So in total, only 4 (what I would consider) small weld points.

The light pole already flexes, as the bracket aperture could have used additional weld for rigidity, and its not even fitted yet!

Already decided its going back for remedial work. It wasn't cheap, so feel I'm within my rights. Reckon I'll drop it by a 1 foot or so, and don't mind paying, as that was my error. They just have to cut one of the sections and reweld the Protex catch lip back in position.

One other thing I've noticed is that where the second section connects to the third section, the connecting stainless steel insert will make contact with the 2 ply wire and coax. I didn't request they drilled holes, but I'm assuming they did it - as its similar to the MOD aluminium light poles they build. I've found 10mm rubber sealed grommets (that you drill) for the cables to exit and enter the pole which finishes it off and makes it watertight.

biffer · 09 February 2013, 12:29

I don't think you need me to tell you. I know that you've already Sussex it ain't strong enough

spartacus · 17 March 2013, 15:36

Remedial work was done on the light pole over the last few weeks. I got them to drop the overall height by a foot and to weld additional points on the base plate, etc. I fixed the base-plate on the transom knee so I didn't have to drill holes in the transom. I'm delighted with result. Wired it in last week so all round white light comes on with navigation lights via a fuse box and Carling rocker switch. Metz antenna is now at A-frame height, so hopefully none of the signal issues I've had for the last couple of seasons.

Hauled the boat out today to wash it down, although it was pouring. Neighbours are already talking!

Also re-greased the wheel bearings, so I'm set for first launch in April.

I've still to tidy up the wiring before it goes into the under-deck trunking. Any pointers for stainless-steel wire clips so I can run the wiring just under the outboard saddle bracket?