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Old 12 January 2013, 04:17   #21
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No, the pole would/could turn and the knee would need twice as many holes in it.
If the plate was made so it dropped over the shape of the knee on all three sides and was bolted at the top via the existing bolt (or a longer one) no holes would be needed.

Wouldn't be able to twist or move.
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Old 12 January 2013, 05:31   #22
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Originally Posted by treerat View Post
If the plate was made so it dropped over the shape of the knee on all three sides and was bolted at the top via the existing bolt (or a longer one) no holes would be needed.

Wouldn't be able to twist or move.
Thanks for input - but that sounds over-engineered? I'm going to make a plywood template today so I know that it works. I like the idea of plating one side of the knee which will be welded to the light pole base. It can be secured with 3 button bolts for a tidy finish. Using the existing transom eye bolt, I'll add a flange/securing plate to the light pole here for rigidity. If that doesn't hold it - goodness knows what will. Straight onto the transom is probably the easiest option, but I really didn't want to have to put holes in it.

Pics to follow
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Old 19 January 2013, 10:44   #23
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Blue Peter version first before I make a plywood version for manufacturer.

I think I'll go for 1" stainless steel instead of 1" tubing, given height and its location.

Any thoughts on this mounting method? I'll use existing transom ring bolt and penny washer (as pictured) - thanks DHD for that suggestion. Might get this stainless steel bracket routed slightly so there's a degree of adjustment where it connects to the transom ring bolt.

The lower mounting plate will be bolted through the transom knee, probably 2-3 button bolts. It probably won't sit as flush as I want, but I'll use a bead of sikaflex on the back of the plate, then a bead on the visible edge of the mount for a tidy finish.

Remind me to clean the drain well bilge!
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Old 19 January 2013, 12:49   #24
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That looks like it will be a neat job.i have a light,flag and soon to be arieal post on my rib i think its made from 2" tube.
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Old 19 January 2013, 19:10   #25
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I can tell you now, that cardboard will NEVER hold up......

Seriously though, it looks a neat solution
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Old 19 January 2013, 19:21   #26
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Fancy the job of designing my new A-frame?
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Old 20 January 2013, 04:28   #27
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I can tell you now, that cardboard will NEVER hold up......

Seriously though, it looks a neat solution
I know, chocolate and teapot come to mind!


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Fancy the job of designing my new A-frame?


If you want it over-budget, out with deadline and made from Christmas paper cardboard tubes then send me details!
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Old 21 January 2013, 07:26   #28
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If you want it over-budget, out with deadline and made from Christmas paper cardboard tubes then send me details!
Genius! - A weight reduction!

But you know what - as a prototyping ideas go..... And here was me going to muck about with polypipe!
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Old 08 February 2013, 16:27   #29
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Update. Received the light pole back today. Really quick service, and communication has been excellent... or so I thought. They've only gone and fitted the flag cleat and toggle point on the wrong side!

Now it's up, it's probably a little on the high side? I specified 6', from the top of the transom. Possibly over the top. Reckon I could get away with 4' instead. Bu**er!

I can live with the flag attachments being on the wrong side as it doesn't effect the functionality and I could probably rig something - but it wasn't what I specified. I supplied a detailed drawing (part of the benefit of being a designer).

Any suggestions? Send it back and get them to lop off a foot (its in 3 sections) and call it quits?
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Old 09 February 2013, 04:19   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spartacus View Post
Blue Peter version first before I make a plywood version for manufacturer.

I think I'll go for 1" stainless steel instead of 1" tubing, given height and its location.

Any thoughts on this mounting method? I'll use existing transom ring bolt and penny washer (as pictured) - thanks DHD for that suggestion. Might get this stainless steel bracket routed slightly so there's a degree of adjustment where it connects to the transom ring bolt.

The lower mounting plate will be bolted through the transom knee, probably 2-3 button bolts. It probably won't sit as flush as I want, but I'll use a bead of sikaflex on the back of the plate, then a bead on the visible edge of the mount for a tidy finish.

Remind me to clean the drain well bilge!
You could make a shoe that fits down the side of that knee with a tube welded to it. You would then just drop the light pole into it, pinch bolt to stop it hopping out
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