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Old 23 June 2014, 09:25   #11
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I wouldn't of thought so, as for a claim i would only send the unit back and not the harness. As long as its fused to what they recommend then they cant complain.
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Old 23 June 2014, 11:22   #12
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I wouldn't of thought so, as for a claim i would only send the unit back and not the harness. As long as its fused to what they recommend then they cant complain.
Yeah except common sense is not so common and many manufacturers use any excuse not to honor a warranty.

I would just leave the inline fuses intact and wire in the leads to wherever you choose. They won't hurt anything. And if you blow that inline fuse just replacing it is highly unlikely to fix the issue since it means there's an internal short in the radio.
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Old 23 June 2014, 11:26   #13
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When I had a fault on a Lowrance unit, and sent it back, they sent a replacement and didn't question the harness.
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Old 23 June 2014, 14:04   #14
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If you only want one fuse then check with the manufacturer that the blade fuse is suitable. Fuses to protect the wiring should be at source, and fuses to protect the equipment could be either near the equipment or near the power source. As manufacturers don,t know how long the wiring loom will be they supply the loom with a fuse near the equipment to primarily protect the equipment. this fuse will not fully protect the wiring harness if there is a fault before it. it is up to the installer to provide a fuse near the source to protect the harness.
My point is unless you know the blade fuse rupture characteristics are the same as the supplied fuse which may be a very fast fuse then doing away with it in the event of equipment failure may turn a cheap repair costing a few pence into a very expensive one.
A standard fuse may require twice its rated current to open in one second, a fast-blow fuse may require twice its rated current to blow in 0.1 seconds, and a slow-blow fuse may require twice its rated current for tens of seconds to blow.
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Old 23 June 2014, 15:57   #15
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Thanks. Good advice.
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Old 24 June 2014, 06:03   #16
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I'm sure I resd somewhere that VHF shouldn't have a separate power switch as it's another thing that could fail (and therfore your radio doesn't work just when you need to shout "mayday").

All the electrickery on my boat goes through the fuse panel - except the radio that is powered from the input side of the panel with the supplied inline fuse so the only switch between it & the battery is the main isolator.


And yes, I have to carry a dfferent shaped fuse, but I also have to carry 3 ratings of blade fuses so it's not really an issue.
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Old 24 June 2014, 07:58   #17
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I'm sure I resd somewhere that VHF shouldn't have a separate power switch as it's another thing that could fail (and therfore your radio doesn't work just when you need to shout "mayday").



All the electrickery on my boat goes through the fuse panel - except the radio that is powered from the input side of the panel with the supplied inline fuse so the only switch between it & the battery is the main isolator.

.

That's how mine is, wired direct to the fuse board with no separate switch.... If the batteries are on the VHF can be switched on too.
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