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Old 22 January 2005, 04:53   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hightower
I can get you some short lenghts on electrical trunking that you can glass to the inside of your console either side. Engine loom one side and everything else the other. Worked for me and I can even use the console for storing things in.

You'll need to rewire everything exept the engine so that if you have electrical gremins at Sea you know where everything is.

Oh yes.....Move that Isolator switch
Thanks Andy, that would be great!

Its fine when im driving the boat. unortunatly Roger has fatter legs and keeps knocking the switch!! think he learnt his lesson tho!
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Old 23 January 2005, 11:36   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rogue Wave
put a phot up of the console and the internal wiring?

Here goes!
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Old 23 January 2005, 16:12   #13
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I bet if you cut off the cable ties it wont be as bad as you think
Graham
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Old 23 January 2005, 16:40   #14
DJL
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Are both cables from the battery black? That could be confusing.

Engine loom looks in pretty good condition - I would separate it from everything else and tie it up out the way. Spraying quicksilver corrosion guard (or similar) on the connectors stops them corroding (funnily enough).

For the rest a water proof box bolted to the console would be a good place to have fused bus bars, NMEA connections etc....


....wish I could get inside my console that easily
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Old 31 January 2005, 15:40   #15
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wiring

Hi
I used to do a lot of boat wiring. There are two things that can really help the reliabilty of electrical wiring in a salty atmosphere:

1)
Reduce the mechanical strain on it by using conduit. Flexible tubing systems such as copex are excellent for this and can be secured with p brackets. Alternatively on exposed runs, large diameter, hep plumbing will ensure evrything is secure and watertight. The secret with conduit is not to overfill it and always leave a draw cord in each section (orange crab line is good) to add extra stuff later, when you can draw a new wire through( with a new spare draw cord).

The copex can be led to a waterproof junction box where there are a lot of wires meeting at the same junction point - so that you can pull it easier. All the above stuff is available fairly cheaply at electrical wholesalers. Also you can buy very sticky number and letter stickers for each end of each cable - this saves tons of time next time you have to deal with anything.

2)
Also, in my experience, old wires react in the marine environment even inside the pvc cable. First it goes brown and brittle and eventualy brown and green when it can then turn to a powdery substance. The brittleness can extend up the pvc coating upto about 8 inches. This can then snap when under strain eg 30 knots in a head sea. Coax also rusts up inside the casing and can effect signal performance in VHF and Radar. The best way to avoid this is to liberally splodge clear silicone on connections and terminals and back an inch or so up the cable.

My retired father still does one or two exceptionally well made panels a year, mainly for yachts and would be happy to talk to anyone wanting one which is beyond the regular DIYer.

Hope the above is useful. Regards Rob
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Old 31 January 2005, 17:12   #16
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couldn't agree more.

Its best to get it laid out so that you can diagnose as quickly and as easily as possible.

I've got a fuse box in mine with leds either side of the fuse. That way you can see if the supply is ok and if the fuse is also ok.

Quick and easy to see whats going on.

I don't agree with the philosophy of if it aint broke don't fix it tho. Could be you or your kids floating on a dead boat in the channel cause of minute tiny bad connection. Not worth it in my opinion.

Chris
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