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Old 22 April 2013, 17:41   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simsy View Post
12.6 when not running is fairly well fully charged I.e 100% is 12.65 volts....
So maybe I will not have to buy new batteries :-)
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Old 23 April 2013, 02:31   #22
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The main cable from the battery to the engine will be rotten. Get a pair of jumpleads and double up from your own battery direct to the starter relay and earth.
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Old 23 April 2013, 03:15   #23
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battery shows 12.6 volts still needs to be load tested
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Old 28 April 2013, 04:00   #24
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I have an f100 too and had the same fuse blow when I got mine. When I bought it I knew it needed a new voltage regulator as that was goosed. Replaced that but the fuse still blew. Technician I used told me that the 30a fuse can only protect the engine from faults in the 703. Changed the whole wiring loom for the 703 and the 703 itself and hey presto it fixed itself.

You may have a similar problem
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Old 28 April 2013, 18:49   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Portholme View Post
I have an f100 too and had the same fuse blow when I got mine. When I bought it I knew it needed a new voltage regulator as that was goosed. Replaced that but the fuse still blew. Technician I used told me that the 30a fuse can only protect the engine from faults in the 703. Changed the whole wiring loom for the 703 and the 703 itself and hey presto it fixed itself.

You may have a similar problem
Thanks for this. Did the fuse blow immediately for you? Having replaced the fuse, everything works, and I started the engine on the muff, and everything seems to be ok except this weird problem with the engine tilt. I have put a spare fuse in there in case.....

Replacing the 703 sounds expensive and difficult :-(
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Old 03 May 2013, 13:45   #26
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the fuse didnt blow immediately but i started getting weird electrical issues. whole dashboard went blank on a really lumpy ride, even though the engine was running. stopped to recover the boat and it blew and would not restart. i put a spare in and got it going.

the guy who replaced the 703 charged me about 250 for a brand new one fitted but the piece of mind is massive as i just didnt now what was going to happen next when out at sea.
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Old 03 May 2013, 17:39   #27
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Quote:
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That would be a last resort, as you'll need to bleed it afterwards which seems to take forever to purge air.

The fact other electrics are out suggests a damaged or dirty connection.

Could be corroded internal wiring. A multimeter on continuity setting will confirm. First steps are to clean all connections including bullet connectors.
The manual bypass does not let air in.
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Old 06 May 2013, 10:59   #28
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Just as an update, I took the boat down to the solent yesterday, and had a great time. The only downside was the continuing problem with the trim / tilt. It was a little embarrassing at Priory Bay when I could not tilt the engine for about 5 mins when coming in. I have had another look today, and cannot fathom it at all. It will tilt fine for about three quarters of one full down or up movement. Then it slows and slows and then finally stops. Then it is dead for about 5 mins, when it will work again for another movement, and so on.

During the dead period, the engine will turn over on the starter, so I think the main wiring to / from the battery is fine, as I am sure the starter takes more power than the trim / tilt.

The relays seem to click, and so I suspect there is something wrong with the trim motor. When I put my hand on it, it is quite warm to the touch. is this normal? Could it be that heat causes the case to expand, and this takes the brushes out of contact, or something similar?
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Old 06 May 2013, 14:34   #29
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Nope, i suspect you need to get your trim motor off and have a look at the brushes/internal contacts. If it's getting hot, there's a high resistance somewhere.
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Old 06 May 2013, 17:18   #30
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Nope, i suspect you need to get your trim motor off and have a look at the brushes/internal contacts. If it's getting hot, there's a high resistance somewhere.
Agree with Nos4r2. Strip the motor out as recommended and look at the carbon brushes. There are rubber 'o' rings that seal the unit, so prudent to order these too, as the existing ones may be leaking or are simply squashed and won't offer long term reliability. Also look at the condition of the wiring to the relays. You'll need the correct specification hydraulic mineral fluid to top up afterwards. The system will need purged of air afterwards.
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