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Old 28 December 2018, 17:34   #1
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Fuses vs circuit beakers?

My 2004 rib has a "Blue Sea Contura" fused 8 switch panel. It's beginning to not want to play nice with me having to wiggle fuses about. and I can't seem to find spares for it.

The easiest option is to buy an exact replacement so no new screw holes or gaps to fill but..

a) I don't think it's a common option in the uk with the replacement being £ 220+. ... please tell me if I can buy it cheaper

b) if I AM going to change it should I change it for a circuit breaker?


HELP!
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Old 28 December 2018, 19:06   #2
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if you do change it for the blue sea panel with the circuit breakers in it they will come with 15a as standard you will probably need to change these for less amperage ones the other option you could do is buy a secondary fuse board and wire it in through that I think the blue sea ones are about £70
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Old 28 December 2018, 19:08   #3
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blue sea bs5029 or bs5032 are both pretty decent items with stainless fitments
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Old 29 December 2018, 07:42   #4
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Can you not retro fit some circuit breakers into the panel you have?

Remove the panel and undo the fuse holders which are only screw backs and buy appropriate circuit breaker amperage with correct dia shank to fit hole..... should be quite easy...
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Old 29 December 2018, 07:54   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by butty View Post
Can you not retro fit some circuit breakers into the panel you have?

Remove the panel and undo the fuse holders which are only screw backs and buy appropriate circuit breaker amperage with correct dia shank to fit hole..... should be quite easy...
I think there is differences in the moulds that have the blade fuses vs circuit breakers
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Old 29 December 2018, 11:14   #6
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Worth an email to Blue Sea to see if their own circuit breakers could be used to replace your fuses?
Looks like they're only a few $ each.
https://www.bluesea.com/search/resul...cuit%20breaker

ETA or just a new set of their fuse holders?
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Old 29 December 2018, 16:12   #7
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I am ot familiar with tge exact blue sea panel you have, but i have used a blue sea panel with six switches, which was mounted on my rib
The problems with circuit breakers versus fuses are Two fold.
Firstly from the circuit breakers i have installed, making the push button waterproof could be problematical, especially if you sail in salt water.
Secondly, circuit breakers are electromechanical devices which have internal levers and springs. These can succumb to corrosion and vibration. If you hit a big wave there is a possibility it could trip the breakers. What are other people's experiences with circuit breakers in a rib.?
They are fine in yachts installed out of the weather for up to about 10 years, before corrosion gets to them. I have replaced many over the years.
Replacement fuses should be available. People like RS Components stock a vast array of blade fuses. Automotive parts dealer should also be able to supply you with them
If it is the fuse holders in your switch panel which have corroded and become dodgy, then just replace the holder. Again RS or any other Major Electrical Wholesaler will carry a wide range of tubular fuse holders. If it is the switches which are dodgy, then get a complete new panel
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Old 29 December 2018, 17:03   #8
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............................The problems with circuit breakers versus fuses are Two fold.
Firstly from the circuit breakers i have installed, making the push button waterproof could be problematical, especially if you sail in salt water.
Secondly, circuit breakers are electromechanical devices which have internal levers and springs. These can succumb to corrosion and vibration. If you hit a big wave there is a possibility it could trip the breakers........
100% with you on this one.

I had two SeaRay sports boats with circuit breakers and they were a constant source intermittent problems. Eventually dumped them and fitted fuses.
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Old 29 December 2018, 17:22   #9
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Don't see any point in circuit breakers in a low voltage system personally, just inducing problems for no reason in my opinion
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Old 29 December 2018, 17:27   #10
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I fitted an electrical system in a 2015 build rib with no issues at all. Covering many hours in different conditions. I’ve never personally had issues with corrosion or tripp8ng due to big slams etc.

I’ve re wired my last few boats to have circuit breakers over fuses as I th8nk they are better as no spare fuses are needed to be carried.
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Old 29 December 2018, 18:06   #11
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.......they are better as no spare fuses are needed to be carried.......

I see the logic in this but in reality, when was the last time you actually blew a fuse / tripped a breaker?
If it does happen "out there" chances are you're not going to diagnose the fault that caused it and fix it until you get "back to base", if just pushing the breaker back in resolves it...fair to say, it shouldn't have tripped in the first place and a fuse probably wouldn't have blown?

I carry half a dozen spare fuses but can't remember ever needing to use one.
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Old 29 December 2018, 18:41   #12
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Originally Posted by Last Tango View Post
I see the logic in this but in reality, when was the last time you actually blew a fuse / tripped a breaker?
If it does happen "out there" chances are you're not going to diagnose the fault that caused it and fix it until you get "back to base", if just pushing the breaker back in resolves it...fair to say, it shouldn't have tripped in the first place and a fuse probably wouldn't have blown?

I carry half a dozen spare fuses but can't remember ever needing to use one.
+1 never blown a fuse in 40 odd years OMO keep it simple especially where water is concerned
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Old 30 December 2018, 12:27   #13
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I seem to recall that the question on breakers vs fuses has been asked previously and I think the general view was that fuses win the day due to the simplicity.

The Contura panels are water resistant and the literature suggests they should withstand salt spray, rain, hose pipes etc. Do you think yours are failing due to water ingress or something else? if it's the former, it might be the sealing of the switch to the console rather than the integrity of the switch.

You could fit the Weatherdeck switches, which are more water resistant, but sod's law is that the hole cut outs are different.

As a result I'd buy the same and check the integrity of the switch to console joint.

The switches are rated at 20A and include 15A fuses. I'm assuming that you haven't upgraded the fuses to more than the switch can take (for a very big bilge pump for example)
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Old 30 December 2018, 14:04   #14
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I think I've been convinced to stick to fuses.


"Weather-deck" cut outs deffo different.

The positioning of the fuses sort of take the whole of the middle of the console so my next question is whether to just replace the whole panel with a new one and seal it better (I can see that the mastic is/has broken down) or move it to the RHS of the wheel and plonk another plotter in the middle...


Oh ,and can someone tell me where I can get a new ON/OFF red/green isolator decal from and mine's also looking worse for wear

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Old 30 December 2018, 14:06   #15
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I guess I could move it underneath the current chart plotter
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Old 30 December 2018, 17:34   #16
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Moving the switches would free up some real estate for a bigger chart plotter. You'll have to check the the console structure between the helm pump and the switch panel hole is man enough to support the loads from the wheel. If it is flexing, that could overwhelm the seal and cause the water ingress.

The switches come with a neoprene seal which is slightly squashy. If the console face is rigid enough, that should overcome any water ingress issues.

I like the stealth black look.
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Old 30 December 2018, 20:46   #17
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Stealth black. Hehe:

it was once described as the "Batmobile!"
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