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11 May 2013, 06:12
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#1
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Shropshire
Boat name: Tanimola
Make: Brig F400S
Engine: Evinrude E-Tec 40HP
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 47
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Fuse box / Switch box - advice please
I am replacing the current mish mash of wiring for my small Rib.
I would like to consolidate the fusing arrangements in one 'box'. This will be housed in the forward locker on the console (not fully waterproof) and ideally can remain loose so I can remove or move.
I am running a fixed VHF, Chartplotter/Fishfinder combined and a small bilge pump.
Any suggestions as to the best solution
Thanks
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11 May 2013, 07:44
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#2
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Member
Country: UK - Channel Islands
Town: A large rock
Boat name: La Frette
Make: Osprey Vipermax
Length: 6m +
Engine: 200 Suzzy
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 2,893
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BlueSea 6 way would fit the bill perfectly well.
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11 May 2013, 08:21
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#3
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Whitehaven
Boat name: Cerberus
Make: Destroyer 5.8
Length: 5m +
Engine: 115hp Merc 4st
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 462
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Just fitted one of these myself and was very impressed with it. Very good quality  . They are available with and without negative bus. I went for one with and it has made a very neat job. Best price I found was amazon.
Phil M
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11 May 2013, 09:42
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#4
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RIBnet supporter
Country: UK - England
Town: Dinard, Brittany
Boat name: Into the Red
Make: Osprey Vipermax
Length: 7m +
Engine: Evinrude E-tec 250HO
MMSI: 235 076 114
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 1,957
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Yeah I have got one too, very good stuff and useful little labels.
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11 May 2013, 10:17
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#5
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RIBnet admin team
Country: UK - England
Town: The wilds of Wiltshire
Boat name: Dominator
Make: SR5.4
Length: 7m +
Engine: Yam 85
MMSI: 235055163
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 13,054
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Me too-used the 12 fuse version with neg bus on the Ballictic, and the Searider has a 6 fuse vesion.
Pack the back with grease though or your fuses will corrode faster than the box does.
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27 May 2013, 22:48
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#6
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Horley
Boat name: Pending!
Make: Cobra
Length: 7m +
Engine: 225hp Outboard
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 401
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nos4r2
Me too-used the 12 fuse version with neg bus on the Ballictic, and the Searider has a 6 fuse vesion.
Pack the back with grease though or your fuses will corrode faster than the box does.
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What like this - rewired a month ago, submerged on Saturday, gone by Sunday!!
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28 May 2013, 05:10
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#7
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RIBnet admin team
Country: UK - England
Town: The wilds of Wiltshire
Boat name: Dominator
Make: SR5.4
Length: 7m +
Engine: Yam 85
MMSI: 235055163
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 13,054
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Nowhere near that bad!
It's possible to remove the back of the Blue Sea panels and pack the inside with something. Mine's packed with Corrosion Block grease, and the fuses are greased too.
No problems since I did it.
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23 June 2013, 21:35
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#8
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Northumberland
Boat name: Northern Storm
Make: North Diver?
Length: 4m +
Engine: Yamaha 90 Autolube
MMSI: 235096344
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 546
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When u say pack back of it what do you mean?
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23 June 2013, 22:20
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#9
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RIBnet admin team
Country: UK - England
Town: The wilds of Wiltshire
Boat name: Dominator
Make: SR5.4
Length: 7m +
Engine: Yam 85
MMSI: 235055163
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 13,054
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Before you fit it, unclip/unscrew the back to expose the metal inside and grease it up inside.
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24 June 2013, 11:56
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#10
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Member
Country: UK - Wales
Town: Here
Boat name: doggypaddle
Make: Avon 5.4 Searider
Length: 5m +
Engine: yamaha 80
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,107
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Do you really need a fusebox?
At what point do you really need a fuse box to do a neat instalation?.
I didnt bother with one on the SR5.4 and I cant see the instalation being any more reliable with one.
I took everything straight back to the master switch and put an inline rubber waterproof blade fuse packed with vaseline on each pos lead. all the negatives go straight to the battery negative.
1 fuse for the GPS
1 fuse for the radio,
1 one for the lighting.
and I think thats all I have. any more than 4 or 5 would get messy, but at least this way NOTHING shares any wiring so it should be more reliable.
I think the instruments get power from the 704 box and are fused in the power head IIRC.
I dont think i would do it any different next time.
but then again the battery is convieniently placed to run all separate circuits.
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