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Old 15 February 2005, 06:19   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisallse
I even remember good old Jim Buck their Rep....how old is that
Chris, you're obviously much older than me and rogue...

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Old 15 February 2005, 11:57   #32
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I'm not that old! Actually he was a lovely man, knew his trade inside out and was a credit to 'radio spares' he had a bag, a bit like a doctors, and this would have samples of the latest products in it, always looked forward to his visit. They were (and still are) a fantastic company. I remember when they had a firm of consultants in to improve efficiency and they spent a month with them and concluded that there was nothing they could improve on.
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Old 15 February 2005, 12:45   #33
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They don't make reps like they used to!
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Old 16 February 2005, 14:40   #34
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Anyone any comments on the proposed wiring


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Old 16 February 2005, 14:52   #35
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Hi, I prefer all circuits separatly fused and switched. That's how we've just done Blue C.
If you wish to share power to the GPS and FF its better to have VHF independant:
It takes a lot more current than the other two therefore they would be "Over Fused" and can interfere with both GPS & FF a seperate supply would help in eliminating this.

All IMHO.

However you do it good luck


Brian
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Old 16 February 2005, 15:00   #36
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I would agree with Brian.

Fuse the GPS, FF and Radio separately. If you need to save space on the fuse panel then use one fuse for all three lights.
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Old 16 February 2005, 15:25   #37
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Thanks for comments - will fuse GPS and FF together and VHF separately - which will probably prevent some interfernce. Could fuse lights together but wanted to keep anchor light separate from port and starport lights.
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Old 16 February 2005, 15:55   #38
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You need to check how you have wired the battery selector, (I assume it is a selector) but it looks the wrong way round. You need the engine on the same connection as the auxillary circuits.

I have drawn the wiring diagramme for my boat Okada. I decided to use 1 switch for the nav/steaming lights but could use a DPDT switch if I later change my mind to have steaming or steaming+nav. Note no switch for the radio to keep it simple in panic mode. I wired the gps/dsc to the same supply as the radio.

Hope it gives you some ideas.
Tim.
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Old 17 February 2005, 01:45   #39
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Swifty is correct, if you connect both the engine live and the aux live to the same terminal of the switch and use the switch as an isolator, that should work fine. If you are going to fit a second battery then you would need to wire it the same as Swifty has. Tip' make sure you have all the battery connections correct before you conect up..or you may have a fire on your hands. I prefer a fuse in the power cable to the console (100 amp)just in case the supply cables are shorted. you also need to ensure that the supply from the battery to the fuse panel is large enough to handle the collective current of all the Aux's. As you have some spare switches why not switch the equipment supply?

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Old 17 February 2005, 02:49   #40
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As you have some spare switches why not switch the equipment supply?

Thought about switching gps, ff and radio but then they have there own switches anyway. One switch was going to be used as horn switch (press switch rather than on off) and one spare.

Agree that 100amp fuse inline at battery would be sensible.

Thanks for everyone's help - hope to make a start at w/e.
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