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Old 26 November 2015, 03:46   #11
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Are there connections on the engine to attach the rectifier (and regulator too?)...
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Old 26 November 2015, 09:13   #12
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have a look on the rectifier for a red take off +ve -ve back to ground on the engine block if you have, put a multimeter across when engine is running you should get around 14 v dc you will need a 20 amp fuse in the +ve side for protection if no take off you need a second rectifier i suspect get in touch with mariner they will advise. suzuki sorted me out.
d rays shop on youtube gives a lot of advice might be worth looking into

cheers
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Old 26 November 2015, 12:30   #13
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Are there connections on the engine to attach the rectifier (and regulator too?)...
Not sure. I'll be at the boat today and will check the engine. I don't recall anything obvious. No wire looms or anything hanging ready for an install that I recall. The motor has these optional parts listed though and they are still available. Several on eBay too at much lower prices. I can get a straight rectifier new for $50, but I have no idea where I would wire it to. I understand the ground , but not sure where it gets its incoming power from. I don't have a starter or alternator, but there must be something generating the power for the spark plugs so...
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Old 26 November 2015, 13:07   #14
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On mine the flywheel has two coils one for the ECM and one for the charging circuit so the connectors are all there, on the lower hp engines you have to change the flywheel so sold as a kit the only joint is for the cable to the the battery. in short my 25 manual has everything the same as the electric start except for the starter motor and charging rectifier.best would be to get a manual of your year engine and look at the charging circuit to determine what you need before you start spending $
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Old 26 November 2015, 13:40   #15
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When I look at the schematics, it appears that the motor (1986 Mariner 30ML) has the option for electric start, and the only things needed to add it according to the specs, are the starter solenoid, voltage regulator, neutral start switch and the rectifier. There is no option for a different flywheel, so I must have the wiring to attach to. Would I need the voltage regulator as well, or just the rectifier?
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Old 26 November 2015, 14:18   #16
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Oh, and my motor has a lighting coil, whatever that is...
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Old 26 November 2015, 14:40   #17
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Oh, and my motor has a lighting coil, whatever that is...
Lighting coil would be charging coil I suspect (terminology ) so I would say you just buy the changing kit from mariner.
I will say that it took me four weeks to get the right kit due to sales at Suzuki uk aren't all technical so your in a que till the one man who knows gets to you.on my engine there was blanked off connectors with dummies in.

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Old 26 November 2015, 14:48   #18
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Google 30hp mariner charging kit, Look on forums.iboats.com mariner outboards all info there quick read says two yellow wires coming from under the flywheel ,charging kits etc.

Good luck smesh
Looks like you need lighting coil and rectifier $200 ish in 2009
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Old 26 November 2015, 15:30   #19
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Oh, and my motor has a lighting coil, whatever that is...
OK we have progress! If you have a lighting coil this is (typically) an a.c. unregulated supply - light bulbs work fine with AC and just get brighter with more volts.

You can't charge a battery direct from AC though - so you need to rectify the signal to DC. If you just rectify it you will find that the voltage will still vary significantly with revs, and likely the volts at full throttle will be higher than you should be charging a battery with. I have heard of people just putting it into a really big battery because the load is so high the effect is minimal, but the correct way is to regulate the voltage (with a regulator!). Sometimes the rectifier and regulator are a combined unit.

Marine regulators and rectifiers like many things boaty are price inflated. They MIGHT be more water proof. They are usually intended to fit somewhere neatly inside the engine cover. If you know what you are doing with voltages and currents you can usually find a motorbike (or similar) reg/rect which will do the same job and can be appropriately boxed to keep it dry and fitted near the battery. You should be aware the regulator can get hot in use.
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Old 27 November 2015, 03:49   #20
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smesh

this might help [not same engine but gives an idea], you will see its for an elecrtic start model, on the manual start the second rectifier is not present for charging so a kit is needed [rectifier, wiring loom, fuse & bracket to hold onto engine], voltage will be regulated within the rectifier in this case its housed within a finned heat sink.

hope that helps cheers
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