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Old 07 October 2011, 05:02   #11
Country: UK - Scotland
Boat name: Wildheart
Make: Humber/Delta Seasafe
Length: 5m +
Engine: Merc 60 Clamshell
MMSI: 235068449
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 4,614
Originally Posted by JABS View Post
On the boat in question everything will be duplicated, so not so much of an issue.
2 VHFs? I have 2, but my handheld won't do DSC...... (and there is of course now the DSC handheld option which negates the battery problem as well!)

Originally Posted by JABS View Post
The problem with a connector coming undone is, to me, worse than fixing a break in an emergency.
Plenty of connectors out there with latching mechanisms.

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Old 07 October 2011, 06:30   #12
Paul Cannell's Avatar
Country: UK - England
Town: Kings Lynn
Boat name: Blow 'N' Away
Make: Coastline
Length: 7m +
Engine: Suzuki 175
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 482
Originally Posted by JABS View Post
Can anyone suggest the best and most reliable way to connect the NMEA outputs and inputs together?

The wires are quite tiny and not physically strong.

I was thinking of soldering and adhesive lined heat shrink to support the join?

Is there a better way.

I intend to support the wires once joined.

Would these be suitable > Heat Shrinkable Solder Butt Splice - Electrical Equipment for Boat, MotorHome & Caravan Owners

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Old 07 October 2011, 10:46   #13
Sea Witch's Avatar
Country: Ireland
Town: clifden
Make: Fletcher Bravo Arrow
Length: 5m +
Engine: Yamaha 175
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 43
I crimped mine together and have them in a junction box along with automotive fuse block for power supply to GPS / VHF . Nothing is exposed to the elements !
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Old 07 October 2011, 11:00   #14
Country: UK - England
Town: Buckingham
Make: Ribcraft 4.8
Length: 4m +
Engine: Mariner 75
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 352
Originally Posted by Paul Cannell View Post
I would suggest something like these instead Black Adhesive Lined Heat Shrink | Electrical Tubing - Heatshrink-Online - the glue lined heatshrink is better at preventing water ingress and the physical twisting of wires together followed by soldering gives a really good connection.

Some people get away with using normal heatshrink and then filling the ends with glue from a hot melt glue gun before applying more heat to shrink, but it gets really fiddly and the proper glue lined heatshrink isn't much more expensive.

A really good IP67 (or better) case with waterproof cable entry glands can work, but it's more expensive.

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