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Old 17 February 2019, 12:18   #11
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Country: UK - Scotland
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your layout as it is just now is probably inadequate for what you are starting you should have went for the bigger master switch as chanchan has in his set up I don't think the master switch is rated for the start current of your big honda remember and fuse your battery charging relay as well with a fuse thats bigger than the max capacity of your alternator the blue sea stuff is pretty well explained in the circuit diagrams the master switch is 2 parallel circuits for the + side and theres a common link when its in the second position have one side for the main start for the engine and the other side for everything else
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Old 17 February 2019, 12:42   #12
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The manual for your engine will quote the cranking current for your starter motor. Somewhere in the region of 400A plus. The standard AddABattery switch is rated about 450A, I think? (look at the spec for the isolater) If your starter current is greater than that, then you will need a larger switch, but with the same contact configuration. I e it will have 4 large studs and three switch positions. On Off and Both. The spec will also give you an indication of the largest engine size the isolator can cope with.
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Old 17 February 2019, 15:06   #13
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Thanks Bobg and breezeblock for your input.

I will take your suggestion Bobg of tracing back from the fuse box and see if I can find the elusive +ve cable that way.

Breezeblock, I have actually got the same Bluesea kit as chanchan - the switch is rated 1000A for 10seconds, and the Honda Bf225a needs a battery that can deliver 800 Cold Cranking Amps. I take your point (along with other contributors) about using proper fuses in the right places, and will sketch it all out before I do any hard wiring and submit for comments.

Many thanks to everyone for all your suggestions.
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Old 17 February 2019, 16:42   #14
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Good luck, and donít be afraid to post back if you need assistance. This forum is a valuable source of expertise and experience
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Old 18 February 2019, 10:19   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim2Mar View Post
Thanks Bobg and breezeblock for your input.

I will take your suggestion Bobg of tracing back from the fuse box and see if I can find the elusive +ve cable that way.

Breezeblock, I have actually got the same Bluesea kit as chanchan - the switch is rated 1000A for 10seconds, and the Honda Bf225a needs a battery that can deliver 800 Cold Cranking Amps. I take your point (along with other contributors) about using proper fuses in the right places, and will sketch it all out before I do any hard wiring and submit for comments.

Many thanks to everyone for all your suggestions.
the bottom of your picture looked like the small master switch that blue sea or bep make my apologies there is an excellent wring diagram that comes with it use it there should also be a wire run to the start circuit as well to knock out the charge relay during starting
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Old 18 February 2019, 13:30   #16
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breezeblock - yes the photo is how the system is wired now, and the switch I think is, as you say, a bep.
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Old 18 February 2019, 13:44   #17
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Originally Posted by Tim2Mar View Post
breezeblock - yes the photo is how the system is wired now, and the switch I think is, as you say, a bep.
heres the proper diagram https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&rct=...50605320326774
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Old 28 February 2019, 12:32   #18
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Quick Update
Managed to find the power supply to the House Circuit (Many thanks to my chum BOG) and have worked out where everything goes. Almost. Turned out that the pink cable from the +ve battery terminal in my original picture was divided near the switch panel, one branch to the bilge pump, the other to the rest of the switch panel.

Is it safe to assume that although the Blue Sea wiring diagram shows both -ve cables going to the -ve Bus Bar, I will achieve the same effect by cabling the two -ve battery terminals together?
And secondly, the fuse between the switch and the House Circuit should be rated to cope with whatever equipment (lights, nav, etc) I am using?
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