Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
 
Old 23 October 2006, 14:46   #1
Member
 
Country: UK - Wales
Town: swansea
Boat name: Too Blue
Make: BLANK
Length: 8m +
Engine: Suzuki DT225
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 12,791
Best waterproof connectors

Being lazy and wanting a quick fix I need to connect my new bilge pump - it's exactly the same as the old one. I can't find where the wires join so I was thinking of just snipping the wires in the transom well and splicing on the new ones. What is the best way to make these waterproof? Heatshrink or bullet connectors(yuk) or what?

I will do a proper job when the boat is out of the water - the way the weather is here I prob only have about 1/2 an hour without getting soaked to do it in.
__________________

__________________
codprawn is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 23 October 2006, 14:59   #2
RIBnet supporter
 
bedajim's Avatar
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Cambs/Northants
Length: no boat
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 2,499
try a through connecter crimp and some of this
http://www.caswelleurope.co.uk/plastidip.htm

You can always wrap it in self amalgamating tape
not sure on the spelling

James
__________________
bedajim is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 23 October 2006, 15:03   #3
Member
 
Country: UK - Wales
Town: swansea
Boat name: Too Blue
Make: BLANK
Length: 8m +
Engine: Suzuki DT225
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 12,791
I did think of both those - but haven't got any - will have to order some anyway - always useful.
__________________
codprawn is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 23 October 2006, 15:19   #4
Member
 
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Glasgow
Boat name: The Black Pearl
Make: BRIG F400S
Length: 4m +
Engine: 40HP E-TEC
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 91
Hi Codprawn,

I used a cone shaped connector, you twist the wires together and push then in the cone then crimp it. The cone is made of plastic so the outer is waterproof and after i'd crimped it i filled the top of the cone with silicone.

Cheers,
Fraser
__________________
fjarvis is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 23 October 2006, 16:09   #5
Member
 
Country: UK - Scotland
Make: HumberOceanOffshore
Length: 8m +
Engine: Volvo KAD300/DPX
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 4,962
Codders, get a length of silicon tube used for fuel line on models. Slide a length about 25-30mm onto the cable where it is to be joined. It's very grippy, you'll need to work it along the cable. Tin both cable ends to be joined with solder. Snip them off at 45 and about 2mm long. Re-tin one of them with a wee blob of solder. Bring the 45 ends together and flow the blob of solder to make the join. Wait until it cools and then slide the silicon tube over the joint to make the seal. Totally watertight.
__________________
JW.
jwalker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 23 October 2006, 16:50   #6
Member
 
Country: USA
Town: Oakland CA
Length: 3m +
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 6,653
A couple of these http://www.go2marine.com/product.do?no=16129F should do the trick. I usually overcoat with adhesive lined shrink tubing, just to be sure.

jky
__________________
jyasaki is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 23 October 2006, 17:27   #7
Member
 
Country: UK - Wales
Town: swansea
Boat name: Too Blue
Make: BLANK
Length: 8m +
Engine: Suzuki DT225
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 12,791
As I happen to have some silicone tubing handy I will do that for now - great idea!!! I will try to get some of the Adhesive Lined Heat Shrink for when I do it later - thanks all.
__________________
codprawn is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 24 October 2006, 04:25   #8
Member
 
Ribshop's Avatar
 
Country: UK - England
Town: River Hamble
Length: 6m +
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 726
This may be of use

http://www.rib-shop.com/prodtype.asp...ageHistory=cat
__________________
RIB REPAIRS | RE-TUBES | RE-FIT - OUTBOARD SERVICING - ONLINE SHOP FOR RIB & TOHATSU PARTS .
Phone: 01489 556800 www.rib-shop.com
Ribshop is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 24 October 2006, 04:41   #9
Member
 
Cookee's Avatar
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Salcombe, Devon, UK
Boat name: BananaShark
Make: BananaShark
Length: 10m +
Engine: 2xYanmar 260 diesels
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 4,225
We use solder and glue lined heatshrink - 2 layers for anything that may be submerged in regular use.
__________________
Cookee
Originally Posted by Zippy
When a boat looks that good who needs tubes!!!
Cookee is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 24 October 2006, 12:55   #10
Member
 
Simon B's Avatar
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Leicester
Boat name: Vixen
Make: Ribcraft
Length: 6m +
Engine: Suzuki OB 175
MMSI: 235071839
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,621
Codders,

Try Farnell catalogue and get some Raychem crimps, they are a crimp that can be heatshrunk on (also has hotmelt glue inside) then slip some glue lined heat shrink over this or alternatively PM me with your address and Ill send you what you need (please include sizes i.e the conductor and the dia of insulation)

Reason being it isnt cheap and they like you to buy lots!
__________________

__________________
New boat is here, very happy!
Simon
www.luec.org
Simon B is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off





Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:15.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.