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Old 25 October 2006, 07:40   #11
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I think Halfords sell them ...

For small quantities of those adhesive-lined heat-shrinkable butt crimp connectors I'd suggest trying Halfords. My local one in Preston had them last time I looked.
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Old 25 October 2006, 08:32   #12
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Thanks everyone - I found some suitable adehsive/heat shrink crimps in Maplin - didn't think to look in Halfords BUT I hate crimp connectors with a passion. Nothing beats a good soldered joint. I think I will try to get some normal glue lined heatshrink or failing that use normal heatshrink and run some superglue around the ends - it's capillary action will be ideal.
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Old 25 October 2006, 13:37   #13
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The ABYC has (I believe) actually gone away from recommending solder joints on wire.

Something about the way the solder wicks up the conductor; any movement thereafter is localized to where the wicking ends, with the result being broken conductors (reduced current capability at best, no conductivity at worst.) I can see how they'd reach that, even if I've never actually seen the failure mode.

They now specify crimp connections rather than solder joints.

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Old 25 October 2006, 18:13   #14
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It is true that a solder joint is quite brittle - in fact the most flexible cables are just bare braid as used on engine earthing straps. However I have never seen a crimp or a bullet connector that doesn't play up. One of my best mates used to be a really good auto electrician before he changed business - he swears by good old fashioned solder - and the massive old soldering iron he kept on a gas burner!!!
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Old 26 October 2006, 05:04   #15
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We use tinned marine grade wire and the glue in the heatshrink sets quite stiff and supports the joint to prevent flexing ...........
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Old 26 October 2006, 13:55   #16
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Just done it - a day without rain at last!!! Cable was already proper tinned stuff so used the trusty gas soldering iron - found some heatshrink I think was glue lined - ran superglue around the ends to make sure and then self amalgamating tape over the top to be safe. See what you mean Cookee about the heatshrink supporting the wires better - not much chance of fatigue I hope.

Why do bilges stink so much though??? Even on an open boat with gallons of fresh rain water over the last few weeks pumped out every few days and it still reeks!!!
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Old 26 October 2006, 14:10   #17
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Hi Codders
Pour 1/2 teaspoon of bleach in your wet bilge. Trust me on this one I run a swimming pool repair/service business.
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Old 26 October 2006, 14:20   #18
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Originally Posted by codprawn View Post
Why do bilges stink so much though??? Even on an open boat with gallons of fresh rain water over the last few weeks pumped out every few days and it still reeks!!!
It'll be the smell of the catalyst used in the resin. It is reckoned to take about 2 years before most of it has found its way out of the laminate.
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Old 26 October 2006, 16:40   #19
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Hi Codders
Pour 1/2 teaspoon of bleach in your wet bilge. Trust me on this one I run a swimming pool repair/service business.
Yes I thought of this one myself - it would get rid of the slime a treat- bleach is amazing stuff!!!
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Old 26 October 2006, 16:49   #20
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It'll be the smell of the catalyst used in the resin. It is reckoned to take about 2 years before most of it has found its way out of the laminate.
I don't think it's that - it's not a chemical smell - more like a sewer!!!
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