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Old 25 September 2012, 08:17   #41
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Thought there would be a couple of questions about switching the negatives. As we are starting afresh there is no specific reason to go either way really, I know it is convention to switch the positives however I figured and read eslewhere that it makes no difference to switch the negatives, plus where the switches and things will be it would be easier to switch the negatives.

If it is an important issue then it wouldn't be hard to switch the positives I suppose.

The 50 AMP line is part of the auxiliary charging circuit and copied straight from the diagram in one of the links above.
The only thing correct about your statement above is that it is convention to switch the positive. I have done the NMEA course and have been wiring cars and boats for quite a while and there is no reason or benefit to switching the negative that I have ever seen. Some really old wiring was done this way, and there have even been whole systems been wired "back to front" with a positive earth but they are really very old indeed and didn't involve modern electronics and would result in galvanic chaos.

Listen to Jezza!

ps the 50 amp fuse is irrelevant - ditch it and fuse all of the components individually!
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When a boat looks that good who needs tubes!!!
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Old 25 September 2012, 08:50   #42
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Originally Posted by Cookee View Post
ps the 50 amp fuse is irrelevant - ditch it and fuse all of the components individually!

I think the 50A fuse is to protect the Aux charging circuit at the engine end. AFAIK it's part of the aux charging harness.

You're bang on about switching the negs Not best practice
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Old 25 September 2012, 09:14   #43
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Originally Posted by gotchiguy View Post

The only NMEA0183 is going to be the existing AIS
0183? That's so last season
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Old 25 September 2012, 09:14   #44
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Yes from the etec installation manual it suggests that the 50AMP fuse is part of the aux charging cable (which I now need to go and buy)

Thanks for your feedback, switching the positives looks like the right thing to do. I'll draw up a revised diagram tonight.

Any suggestions for fuse boxes?

Also, we are keen to independently switch all the electronics however it was not set up like this before and I believe the reason was that the two switches installed were not all the same type. I am wondering if within a single panel like these it is possible to have one for the nav lights with three positions as opposed to two
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Old 25 September 2012, 09:52   #45
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My suggestion would be something like an all in one, it can even come with a three position nav light switch and it's fused and splash proof.
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Old 25 September 2012, 11:51   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cookee
My suggestion would be something like an all in one, it can even come with a three position nav light switch and it's fused and splash proof.
Spray proof? Mmm...

I always use Bluesea components, it's all top quality. Their contura switch panel uses the switches that gotchi linked to but I don't advise individually switching all your electronics, it's just more work and expensive. They've all got their own power button and if you did need to isolate one then just pull the fuse out.

I recommend these fuse blocks:
http://bluesea.com/category/81/21/productline/126
6 or 12 circuits and feature a single live feed in and neg bus bar so the whole job becomes neat and tidy with minimum amount of wiring.

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Old 25 September 2012, 12:05   #47
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I recommend these fuse blocks:
ST Blade Fuse Blocks - PN - Blue Sea Systems
6 or 12 circuits and feature a single live feed in and neg bus bar so the whole job becomes neat and tidy with minimum amount of wiring.
That looks just the ticket thanks a lot!

I have been thinking and I think just adding individual switches in the same series our existing ones is going to be the best call. So we would have: trim tabs, nav lights, NMEA 2000 power, AIS silent mode, bilge pump, and as martini says, just use the power buttons for everything else
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Old 25 September 2012, 12:52   #48
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Originally Posted by martini View Post
Spray proof? Mmm...

I always use Bluesea components, it's all top quality. Their contura switch panel uses the switches that gotchi linked to but I don't advise individually switching all your electronics, it's just more work and expensive. They've all got their own power button and if you did need to isolate one then just pull the fuse out.

I recommend these fuse blocks:
ST Blade Fuse Blocks - PN - Blue Sea Systems
6 or 12 circuits and feature a single live feed in and neg bus bar so the whole job becomes neat and tidy with minimum amount of wiring.

Sent from my portable speaking device using Rib.net
That's what I've use

Also use there blue sea ACR and isolator 1&2 or both switch so everything is isolated with minimum switches, would save running a second cable through the underdeck trunking
The ACR has a safety circuit so if your house battery is below a 9.5 volts it won't try to charge it and risk the starter battery. Don't ask how I know.

Add-a-Battery*—*Blue Sea Systems

Jim
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Old 25 September 2012, 13:32   #49
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I bought a complete panel as first port of call for my battery power:
Triple Battery Bank Management Panels - PN - Blue Sea Systems

You can see in the 1st 2 pics I glassed in a recessed panel in order to mount the panel inside the console and get a waterproof hatch over the front of the panel (even though it's waterproof anyway).

Then I glassed in an Index Marine box round the back to house the rest of it. Slightly OTT I know

Third pic shows it wired in and last pic shows a pair of ACR's and neg busbar.

ps this is a triple battery bank set up
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Old 25 September 2012, 13:49   #50
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Thanks to the auxiliary charging harness there is no need to fit an ACR.

Final question pretty much:

Can the off/1/both switch be rigged to turn on the house electronics too? If so...how..

Or would it not just be easier to fit a separate isolator for them (master electronics switch on diagram)
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