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Old 21 September 2012, 07:15   #31
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Wish I could type - spelt Pikey wrong in an earlier post

Keith

I noticed that, but didn't say anything. That would be just being pickey
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Old 23 September 2012, 16:03   #32
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Attached are a couple of pages from the Etec installation manual showing the battery istallation options.

Keith
Ok thanks very much for that. (no4 for us I think..) How would the house electronics fit into this then? That set up sorts starting, but which positive do we take for the plotter etc?
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Old 23 September 2012, 17:13   #33
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Ok thanks very much for that. (no4 for us I think..) How would the house electronics fit into this then? That set up sorts starting, but which positive do we take for the plotter etc?
Can you do a sketch of what you've got ?

Wiring wise
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Old 23 September 2012, 17:40   #34
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Ok thanks very much for that. (no4 for us I think..) How would the house electronics fit into this then? That set up sorts starting, but which positive do we take for the plotter etc?

Assuming you use setup 4, you would feed your electronics from battery "aux2" In normal operation, the engine would start from "primary" & electronics would run from Secondary. I wouldn't bother with the battery changeover switch, they can cause problems. I would fit a battery isolator switch between the positives of both batteries. This would normally be in the Open position.
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Old 24 September 2012, 06:25   #35
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Ok thanks very much for that. (no4 for us I think..) How would the house electronics fit into this then? That set up sorts starting, but which positive do we take for the plotter etc?
As Pikey says.

Keith
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Old 24 September 2012, 15:30   #36
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Can you do a sketch of what you've got ?

Wiring wise
There is nothing there, just lots of holes..


I've attached a proposed wiring diagram. The electronics are less of an issue really, save that when I do v2 I'll put the switch box next to the fuse box

The only NMEA0183 is going to be the existing AIS
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Old 25 September 2012, 03:29   #37
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I've attached a proposed wiring diagram. The electronics are less of an issue really, save that when I do v2 I'll put the switch box next to the fuse box

The only NMEA0183 is going to be the existing AIS
To be fair I am easily confused but are you switching the negatives? If so why?
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Old 25 September 2012, 05:34   #38
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Dont switch on the Negatives.
means that the devices are "live" all the time as it were.
can lead to all sorts of odd things happening.

whats the 50Amp fuse feed from the house battery to the engine for?
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Old 25 September 2012, 06:03   #39
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Thought there would be a couple of questions about switching the negatives. As we are starting afresh there is no specific reason to go either way really, I know it is convention to switch the positives however I figured and read eslewhere that it makes no difference to switch the negatives, plus where the switches and things will be it would be easier to switch the negatives.

If it is an important issue then it wouldn't be hard to switch the positives I suppose.

The 50 AMP line is part of the auxiliary charging circuit and copied straight from the diagram in one of the links above.
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Old 25 September 2012, 06:56   #40
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arr so you do have a aux charge out. ok makes sense now.
main batt charged form motor and 2nd charged from aux charge. cool

best practice would be to switch the +. safest
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