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Old 20 September 2012, 13:02   #21
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Originally Posted by kwil
No VSr's, relays or diodes.

Keith
So how does that work then? Mosfets?
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Old 20 September 2012, 13:26   #22
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Sort of, he has icommand guages that can be configured to read allsorts of data and Gotchi has his set to read the alternator voltage, which as Pickey says in an Etec is 55v. What he needs to do is tab through the gauge setup to find Battery Voltage this will then show the normal battery charging voltage.
Hmm. I must say I am pretty sure that we had this problem in the beginning because it was set to alt voltage and so the reading was 0 with the engine off but we changed it to battery voltage to get a reading..but perhaps not.
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Gotchi if you really want to make use of the Etec battery charging features you can fit the Auxillary charging lead and charge 2 battery banks independantly. No VSr's, relays or diodes.
Yes, this is exactly what Pikey dave has suggested to me before and I think the way that I want to go, however I have three questions about it:
1. Can the two batteries be of different sizes
2. Would it be possible to wire them together in such a way as that one could do house and the other starting but they could be linked together/swapped just by turning a switch?
3. How easy is it to retrofit
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Do you know that your batteries were actually sulphated? If so, they could possibly have been saved (or part rejuvenated). Sulphation and its causes are complicated, but lack of use and bad charging can cause it. AGM batteries are more robust than SFL lead acids.
Yes I took it out myself and it was horrendous. Remember there was only one undersized truck battery coming out.
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I think what is happening is the i-commands are set to read "alternator" voltage which is 55v, this is a NMEA2000 sentence from the EMM, not a true voltage reading as such. Change this to "Battery" & it should read sensible numbers. If all else fails stick a voltmeter across the battery terminal on the solenoid & earth.
I have stuck a voltmeter across and the voltage coming out has only ever been around 12/13
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Old 20 September 2012, 14:04   #23
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I have stuck a voltmeter across and the voltage coming out has only ever been around 12/13
Alternator voltage should be about 13.7V fully charged. About 14.4V when charging.

Perhaps the reason the existing battery failed is due to flawed or inadequate charging?
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Old 20 September 2012, 15:52   #24
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Originally Posted by gotchiguy View Post
Yes, this is exactly what Pikey dave has suggested to me before and I think the way that I want to go, however I have three questions about it:
1. Can the two batteries be of different sizes Yes
2. Would it be possible to wire them together in such a way as that one could do house and the other starting but they could be linked together/swapped just by turning a switch? Yes, all you need is an isolator switch between the 2 +ves
3. How easy is it to retrofit Very, it's a plug in wiring harness


I have stuck a voltmeter across and the voltage coming out has only ever been around 12/13 Was that at tickover or +2000rpm?
No problem
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Old 20 September 2012, 16:03   #25
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So how does that work then? Mosfets?
It's all done by the EMM, the aforementioned 55v output from the alternator is normally paralleled into 1x 50A charging supply, the harness splits it into 2x25A supplies. The main engine battery is connected as normal to the starter leads, the auxilliary is connected to the Aux battery charging harness, just like a battery charger. If you fit a heavy link between the +ves with an isolator switch inline, you have to option of linking both batteries if something goes wrong. The -ves would be linked as a matter of course.
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Old 20 September 2012, 19:41   #26
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that'll explain you replacing all your electronics then.
Boom
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Old 20 September 2012, 21:29   #27
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Sort of, he has icommand guages that can be configured to read allsorts of data and Gotchi has his set to read the alternator voltage, which as Pickey says in an Etec is 55v. What he needs to do is tab through the gauge setup to find Battery Voltage this will then show the normal battery charging voltage.
Gotchi if you really want to make use of the Etec battery charging features you can fit the Auxillary charging lead and charge 2 battery banks independantly. No VSr's, relays or diodes.

Keith
So does this mean changing the wiring harness from the engine or adding more cables to the existing one through the under deck trunking ?
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Old 21 September 2012, 03:40   #28
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So does this mean changing the wiring harness from the engine or adding more cables to the existing one through the under deck trunking ?
He'll need to run the auxiliary charging leads to wherever his aux battery is, presumably under the console. The aux charging harness plug into the main harness under the engine cowl.
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Old 21 September 2012, 05:58   #29
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Attached are a couple of pages from the Etec installation manual showing the battery istallation options.

Keith
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Etec Battery Connection.pdf (278.9 KB, 82 views)
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Old 21 September 2012, 06:00   #30
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Wish I could type - spelt Pikey wrong in an earlier post and now spelt installation wrong.

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